  
Monthly Archives from March 2006The BuzzThe Buzz
Currently I am working on a book. Je travaille à l'écriture d'un livre. Latest Fragrance Review Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Fragrance Essays Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Reviews of New Perfumes
Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri From the Archives Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions of the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind. |
April 2006 Archive Page 1 of 2 • 1 2 April 4, 2006April 14, 2006Scented Quote of the Day, from Gustave Flaubert: "For him, there was never enough cold cream applied on her skin, never enough patchouli scenting her handkerchiefs." Madame Bovary Picture is from gallica.bnf.fr
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The Fifth Sense in the News: The Fragrance of Pine Forests
Here's a link to an article in the Guardian of April 14, 2006 on how the fragrance of pine forests helps cool down the atmosphere around them.
Fragrance of Pine Forests helps slow climatic change.
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The Fifth Sense in the News: Fragrances and Public Space
An article from the Christian Science Monitor of April 14, 2006 about the restrictions regarding perfume-wearing in public spaces.
Where does 'Public Space" and 'My Space' Begin?
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April 15, 2006Scented Quote of the Day, from Emile Zola: "In the muggy air intermittently lingered a more acute odor, it was coming from a few sprigs of dried patchouli broken into tiny pieces at the bottom of a glass." Nana
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Scented Thoughts: Back From Paris  It is hard to write about perfumes when you are in Paris. First of all, there are too many things to get busy about and secondly, if your mind starts craving certain scents, the craving can so rapidly be satisfied that you can hardly call it a craving and certainly not a longing. In sum, not much to write about. Back in the States, I start forgetting about that sense of satiety and plenty, perfume-wise, that you experience in Paris. I start imagining perfumes, rather than living them and therefore it comes more naturally to me that I should wish to write about them. Scents to me cannot be dissociated from certain places, streets, atmospheres; they add that extra dimension of mystery and imagining of forgotten universes to the present world. So, perfume almost stands to me as a mere excuse, a means of making time stand still and recreating lost spaces. Certain streets; I gaze absent-mindedly through the window, abstracting from my surroundings, almost forgetting about the very boisterous courtyard outside. In my memory, I go back to la rue Saint André des Arts, la rue de l'Ancienne Comédie and I recreate with great pleasure the impressions of a certain day that smelled of vanilla and patchouli. The scent is Vanille, from Des Filles à La Vanille. There is a boutique there on the corner of the rue de l'Ancienne Comédie and another one on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. "Vanille" just goes well with the neighborhood, I don't know why. I am not the only one to appreciate it, both bottles of "Vanille" at both locations are almost empty. They have been sprayed away by anonymous and familiar hands, women most probably, sharing similar tastes. Passers-by on boulevard Saint Germain are invited to sample three bottles of perfume from Des Filles à La Vanille, sitting on a stand situated on its threshold, half-way standing between the boutique and the street. The "mouillettes" (paper strips) are lovely and fancy, all gold-lettered and rather full of flourishes; I wish I had taken a close-up photo of some of them. They are fanning out in their glass cups. So much inconspicuous attention given to details. Why? It's so ephemeral. I suppose a taste for luxury, a good supplier, and some idea of what civilization means. Women here like heavier, earthy scents and men do as well. You smell them and they make you think of the depth of history and experience. Of some sort of roots and at the same time, it's evocative of their skins, of the dry warmth of unknown bodies. People are not shying away from their corporeality but emphasizing it. How courageous of them. I am at ease sporting heavily sensual perfumes in Paris, but I think of the trip back home to Massachusetts and this compels me to buy a parallel set of perfumes, lighter, more proper, ones that won't run the risk of being judged offensive. I think more of the risk of invading someone's private space and less of the pleasure of scenting the air, on the street, for strangers to be appreciative of and intrigued by. This morning in Cambridge, I nevertheless put on Vanille and yes, someone did turn suddenly toward me and looked a bit surprised, an unusually strong scent wafting toward him? I almost did not buy Vanille, the patchouli had such an explosive force at first that I had to take a step back away from the spray in utter shock and olfactory revulsion. Berk, berk, berk! Yet, soon enough the beautiful, rich vanilla took over, appearing deeper and more interesting thanks to the patchouli, softened further by the almond note. It's certainly not typical of what you smell on the streets of Cambridge and Boston. But what then is typical of a Cantabrigian and Bostonian smell? I don't know. I think of a medley of scents escaping through the doors of a The Body Shop, sweet and nice. My husband just mutters now that he hates the smell of The Body Shop, although he is one that pays no attention to scents, he confirms to me that there is such a typical smell imprinting that corner of that street. I think of iodine, of the scent of the sea that sometimes runs through the streets with the wind and reminds you that there is a coast. What else? Maybe Happy by Clinique, because of the many young students who live in Harvard Square? Did I really smell this that often or am I just imagining it? Well, I do remember spying a bottle of Happy that sat almost empty on the Clinique counter at the Coop. I should pay more attention next time and follow the scent trails. Photos by Mimi Froufrou
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April 17, 2006Scented Thoughts: Double Take Yesterday, sitting on the couch, sipping my early morning cup of coffee, the lamps unlit, the blinds still un-drawn, and the laptop on, I suddenly became aware of the presence of an exquisite scent surrounding me. It made its presence felt and then disappeared, came back, tenuous and all the more delicate and intriguing for that. I tried hard not to let go of it, now inhaling carefully and more deeply while concentrating on trying to recognize it, focusing even more intensely as I wasn't distracted by any glaring object that I could visualize in the semi-obscurity. Was I dreaming, was it some sort of illusion, or maybe was I just unknowingly recreating an olfactory memory? Now the scent became more tangible, felt intimate, and stayed on. I suddenly remembered my woolen shawl hastily thrown at the back of the couch and the perfume I was wearing the day before, Fragonard by Fragonard! I had never suspected until then how lovely it smelled. That moment served to help me objectify its beauty and I simply had to wear it for Easter egg hunt day, with a renewed, deeper appreciation for it. I've discovered that it is the sign of a truly good perfume when it can become something else than you thought it was. A truly moving fragrance will possess the power of metamorphosis and will surprise you by taking on different olfactory hues and identities along time. Its nature will be to be both elusive and present. Photo is from Fragonard
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April 20, 2006Perfume Review & Musings: Garçon Manqué by Des Filles à la Vanille Garçon Manqué will no doubt make the lighter and tender you come out and will perfectly espouse the mood of spring, renewal, and children's laughters in public gardens with a little detour to the baker's at four o'clock right on time for the goûter. You might be you on your own or with children awaiting the ritual of biting into the pain of chocolat and other scrumptious baked goodies. In Garçon Manqué, there is this characteristic smell and whiff you get upon entering a neighborhood boulangerie and if you approach your nose close enough to a tarte aux fraises (strawberry pie) you get the even more distinctive smell of a crème pâtissière on which fresh and juicy strawberries rest. My mother exclaimed upon getting a whiff of it, "it smells like a cake!" Yes, but not just any cake, it smells of the lovely crème pâtissière religiously decorating the shell of any self-respecting French strawberry pie. It also conjures up for me images of the kiosques à bonbons from the Jardin du Luxembourg, of the candies displayed there mingled with the freshness of the air and the scents of the trees in the park; the perfume manages to be both sweet and airy.... Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Garçon Manqué by Des Filles à la Vanille" »
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April 21, 2006Scented Quote of the Day, from Ramakrishna: "We laugh at the efforts of the musk deer to find the source of the scent which comes from itself and despair at our efforts to find the peace which is our essence." Image is from www.bethecause.org
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April 24, 2006Scented Quote of the Day, from John Keats: I saw the sweetest flower wild nature yields, A fresh-blown musk-rose; 'twas the first that threw Its sweets upon the summer. To a Friend who Sent some Roses Picture is from huntbot.andrew.cmu.edu
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Perfume Review & Musings: Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum & Oil by Maurice Roucel at Frederic Malle, Editions de Parfums
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April 25, 2006Perfume Review & Musings: Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens
Un Bois Vanille, created in 2003, is one of the more interesting variations on vanilla that I know of and one of the few fragrances in the Serge Lutens line that seems to be willing to compromise with the idea of being, possibly, a perfume to be worn --- how prosaic, I know. The common man, the one that is looking for mere empathy in a juice is glad to have found a more self-effacing Lutens perfume.
Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens" »
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The Fifth Sense in the News: Olfactory Movies Coming Soon To Your Home By the end of the year 2006, the French might be able to both view and smell olfactory movies at home thanks to a technology developed by AC2i. Michel Pozzo and his team are working on a small-sized scent diffuser operated with batteries and rechargeable batteries that will be able to diffuse scents controlled by codes from a DVD. To each scent would correspond a different code. These codes would be read by the diffuser through the Wi-Fi. This diffuser will cost approximately 120 Euros. Since April 22, 2006, the Japanese are able to watch the last Terrence Malick movie, The New World, in special movie theaters equiped with globes underneath their seats mixing different scents based on 6 essential oils. The scents' compositions are downloaded from NTT Communication's servers to a local server. In July of 2005, ScentAir had already been able to perfume the air with chocolate at the premiere of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Source: "Le cinéma se met au parfum" dated April 24, 2006, by Hélène Puel at www.01net.com
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April 26, 2006Perfume Review & Musings: Eau de Cologne à La Russe, à La Française et à l'Italienne by Pierre Bourdon for Institut Très Bien
On a recent trip to Paris I came accross a line of niche colognes that I think have good chances of pleasing amateurs of refined and understated fragrances as well as potentially proving to be a welcome addition to the fragrance wardrobes of people who are looking for fumes discrete enough to wear at the office. They will also probably pique the curiosity of history buffs and rejoice Europeanophiles....
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April 27, 2006Scented Thoughts: Perfume List-Making and The Meaning of It For whatever reasons people decide to compile lists, and lists of perfumes in particular, I find the results of this activity to be usually both interesting and entertaining as well as informative for the consumers that we are. The activity itself is fascinating, pointing to a seemingly innate urge to categorize the world and bring added meaning to it. Making lists is also a cataloguing activity; we want to store knowledge and preserve it in a clear and accessible way. How do we classify fragrances and symbolically re-work the ready-made, packaged material presented to us by perfume brands? How do we symbolically re-order nature and society through the classification of scents? What values are expressed through that activity? How aesthetically satisfying can lists be? These are some of the questions I want to raise. Lists, furthermore, are fun, beautiful, creative, personal, normative, erudite, informative, etc. They reflect a critical and selective activity and usually are meant to be helpful as well as be aesthetic pronouncements pointing to a more ideal world. They tell us what they think are "the best of" and where to find meaning, beauty, and harmony. They also offer us condensed, essential information. So, I've decided I will post lists of perfumes or of perfume-related information I come accross. I will probably pitch in too at some point. Don't hesitate to chime in to let us know what you would have put in any given list. Tomorrow, I will post a list regarding the types of fragrances that certain types of men should be wearing. Photo is from Institut Très Bien. It is a beautiful, poetical list of perfume notes. No selection here obviously, except in the choice of words, like Siam instead of Thailand. An a priori boring commercial list of ingredients is turned into a little work of art.
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April 2006 Archive Page 1 of 2 • 1 2 |
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Latest CommentsRegina on Happy New Year 2012! : Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations? C Sasich on Easy Tricks To Create Golden Globes Hairstyles! {Beauty Notes - Hair} : My fave was Michelle Williams - modern , effortless not overdone . ... kelvin neo on Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances* : Hi good day, Can i know where can purchase or order Pink ... Alan on A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading} : Hell-scent candle, lol. Gina on Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes} : I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ... Tammy on Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List} : Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ... Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ... Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ... evageli karounzou on Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News} : at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ... Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ... Kay on Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam : This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ... Maddy on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ... patuxxa on Happ & Stahns 1922 Lily Sanguine (2011) {New Fragrance} : For some reason, "ScentTrek" makes me think of Mr. Spock :) Valerie on The Return of Dirty Musks: 6 New Ways to Musk Up for Summer 2010 {Perfume Reviews} {Trend Alert} : I ws referred to your site by a friend who knows I ... mike on 1776 by Elsha {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week} : i started wearing elsha in the early 60s and still wear it ... Recent Posts
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Musc Ravageur, the edp and the oil, were created by perfumer Maurice Roucel in 2000 and 2003, respectively. Roucel is known for his creations of both luxury and niche scents such as Hermès 24 Faubourg, Guerlain L'Instant, Donna Karan Be Delicious, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, and Lolita Lempicka L, among others.