The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: July 2006

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July 2006 Archive

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July 26, 2006

New Perfume: L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

YSL will release a new men's fragrance called L'Homme in September 2006. The perfume was created by noses Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Ropion.

"It features fresh top notes of lemon cedrat and bergamot, blended with ginger of China. The heart is a mix of florals and spice, courtesy of violet leaves, basil flowers and white pepper. The dry-down combines Haitian vetiver, cedar wood and Tonka bean." The bottle's design was inspired by Bauhaus architecture. The face of the fragrance will be sexy French actor Olivier Martinez (I'm always glad to post his picture.) Source: The Moodie Report

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July 27, 2006

Fragrance News & Shopping Tip: Mayotte by Guerlain

Guerlain is issuing a reedition of Mahora (2000) called Mayotte which is part of the collection "Les Parisiennes". The new flacon, a classic Guerlain bee bottle, is different from the original but the juice remains the same. These reeditions usually retail around 140 Euros so grab a discounted bottle of Mahora if you want to smell expensive for less!...

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New Perfume: Antidote by Viktor & Rolf

Dutch designers Viktor Horting & Rolf Snoeren are launching their first men's fragrance called Antidote following the success of the release of Flowerbomb in 2005. They see the new perfume as being an olfactory extension of their menswear line. The juice was created by Alienor Massenet and Pierre Wargnye of IFF. The flacon was designed by Fabien Baron.

The scent is described as a woody oriental; it "(...) has opening notes of mint leaves, Italian bergamot, mandarin orange, essence of grapefruit and essence of Guatemalan cardamon. At the heart is sambac jasmine absolute. The primary base notes are amber, guaiacum wood, sandalwood, cedar, moss and musk."

Two sizes will be available, $65 for 1.7 oz. and $90 for 4.2 oz. Antidote EdP will launch in September at Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. A 3.4-oz. aftershave balm for $45 and a 4.2-oz. aftershave spray for $55 will also be released in October. It will roll out worldwide in spring 2007.

Source: Cosmetic News

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New Perfume: With Love by Hilary Duff

Teen Star Hilary Duff is launching her first fragrance called With Love. It targets women aged from 15 to 24 although Duff thinks it will appeal to a broader audience due to the sophistication of the scent. The star closely monitored the creation of the fragrance saying it took 115 different versions to perfect it.

The juice was created by Quest perfumers Stephen Nilsen and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. "In terms of ingredients, effervescent mangosteen and Champagne represent the “fun and bubbly” side of Duff’s personality, while her “complex, sensual side” is highlighted by an accord of textured cocobolo woods."

Updated: there is now a website showcasing With Love, please see my latest post about Duff's perfume.

Sources: The Moodie Report, Women's Wear Daily

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July 28, 2006

New Perfumes: Ivy, Violet, & Amber by Marc Jacobs

Following the success of the launch in April of their retro-looking Splash line bottled in 10 oz flacons, Rain, Grass, and Cotton, Marc Jacobs is going to release a new trio of fragrances this fall that will include Ivy, Violet, and Amber.

As stated by Marc Jacobs at the time of the introduction of the first Splash line, "I always liked the concept of a fragrance someone could wear without it being too precious. I was trying to move away from the concept that fragrance is only meant to sit on a shelf and be dotted on the wrist, sparingly, for special occasions. Everything about Splash is meant to be more casual or lighthearted: the scents, the colors, the big bottle with its oversize proportions. All three scents are things that always smell good to me. They aren't ‘occasion' scents — they are meant to invite you to use as much as possible, whenever you like." ...

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New Perfume & Fragrance News: Black Orchid by Tom Ford & A New Line of Unisex Fragrances

The much awaited Black Orchid by Tom Ford that will come out this fall has been unveiled for WWD. It is an opportunity for Ford to express some of his ideas about the contemporary fragrance scene. As he states,"For the last decade, I think we've launched fragrances which, like everything, have become so stripped-down, so transparent in terms of color and often in terms of scent. They often become quite watered-down…everything is tested and retested, and while you might end up with a lot of fragrances which smell good, it's not fragrance development in the old-fashioned sense. I really wanted to create old-fashioned, but in a new sense."...

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Perfume Review: Nina (The New Version) by Nina Ricci

The new Nina by Nina Ricci was released in France in July 2006 and will start rolling out internationally in September. It will be introduced in the USA in a third stage, in 2007. The perfume was created by Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich.

-- Whereby it is once more demonstrated that perfumery needs mythology otherwise it cannot operate --

Nina is an allusion to an "apple of love", as the story line goes, suggesting to "Give way to temptation..." thus conflating ancient stories or beliefs about Eve in the Garden of Eden as well as The Judgement of Paris. The latter, as you may recall or not, chose Aphrodite as being the fairest over Hera and Athena by giving her a golden apple marked with the words, "to the fairest" because the goddess of love had promised him he would be granted the most beautiful woman in the world, i.e., Helen, wife of Menelaus. As we know, in both cases, consequences were dire. In the first case, we had the fall of Eve and Adam, that is of mankind, and the archtypification of women as sinners. In the second case, we had the Trojan War. All these ideas are hinted at with a pretty figurative flacon of a red-pink apple adorned with silver leaves...

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