Monthly Archives from March 2006



Les Parfums de Rosine Diabolo Rose {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

 

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Diabolo Rose is the latest rose perfume creation by Les Parfums de Rosine, a niche perfume house established in 1991 and located at the Palais Royal in Paris, which centers its collection exclusively on the queen of the flowers, her majesty the rose. The perfume was composed by nose François Robert interpreting an idea proposed by Marie-Hélène Rogeon, the founder and owner of the brand. The scent is described as a fresh floral, which is adequate enough, except that this does not do entirely justice to the central showcasing of the heavier sensual character of the rose absolute......

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Photo by jaroslavd 

In Diabolo Rose, we find the thirst-quenching qualities of the two-ingredient drink called “diabolo menthe” made with emerald-colored peppermint syrup, fizzy lemonade, and with jam-like petals of roses thrown into the mix by Parfums de Rosine. The natural nobility of the rose is not sacrificed to the fantasy of a perfume that one could almost sip through a straw or drink as a fragrant cup of tea. The rose blooms in the heart of the perfume like a true absolute of rose, but is preceded and accompanied by a playful, fresh, and gourmand counterpoint of mouth-wateringly refreshing icy mint syrup on the rocks. The gentle, innocent, child-like sweetness of the perfume, which never feels candied, envelops a rich, liquorish-y, and earthy rose evoking freshly moved dirt, whose charm is made more sexual thanks to the metallic tang and saltiness of the ambergris. A rose-turned-siren. The fragrance later becomes lighter, more transparent, and takes on nuances of sugary lemon tea and green mate leaves. At this point, the scent feels a bit like a very light rose chypre. The dry-down is discrete, musky, and powdery. The perfume tends to be fleeting.  

Diabolo Rose is a realistic, even raw roses fragrance, with a measure of whimsy thrown into it. It is a scent for people who can stomach the aroma of a rose absolute, are intrigued by the idea of a rose embedded in fresh mint, and are not bothered by issues of longevity in a perfume. This bottle will need to be carried about and the scent reapplied throughout the day, which is not a problem, in principle, when one loves to recreate sensations that one delight in.

Top notes are Sicilian bergamot, peppermint, rose essence. Heart notes are lily of the valley, rose absolute, tomato leaves, peony. Base notes are mate leaves, sandalwood, amber, musk.

The fragrance is available at Les Parfums de Rosine, 70 Euros for 50 ml and 90 Euros for 100 ml.

For another pic of the bottle and further e-tailer information, you can go to our previous announcement 

Read our review of Jean-Charles Brosseau Fleurs d'Ombre Violette-Menthe, also based on a mint and floral accord. 

Comments

Isn't Diabolo Rose lovely? To me it is like an early morning walk in the garden - the air ist still cool, and the aroma of all the fragrant herbs I have in my imaginary garden, especially the many species of mint, is mingling with the fragrance of the roses, which hasn't reached its peak yet. Love it! (And just in case you didn't notice: my imaginary garden is very fragrant indeed!)

What a wonderful impression! I am glad you are enjoying it!

Wow that sounds so refreshing and delicious. I've never tried a Rosine but now I am very intrigued.

I think that with the right attitude and summery outfit, this could work very well.

I'm glad your review reminded me of this one. It's been on my "to re-sniff" list ever since it came out (they didn't have samples yet). Like many Rosines, it's got a very joyous, Mozartian feel to it: Cherubino might have worn that scent!

What a great reference to Mozart! And now that I think of it, so very apt. One should always feel grateful to be reminded of the luminosity, lightness, clarity, and grace of Mozart. Plus that absolute of rose feels very 18th-century indeed.

I'm so looking forward to this one - just ordered a decant. I find all of the Rosines to have mediocre to poor lasting power.

This might be due to the fact that they use more rather than fewer natural essences.

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