Monthly Archives from March 2006



A Hungarian Perfumer: Zsolt Zolyomi of Parfums Zsolt Zolyomi {Perfume Q & A} {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

Zsolt Zolyomi.jpg

We recently happened on the site of a young Hungarian perfumer named Zsolt Zolyomi. We asked him if he could tell us a bit more about himself and his brand, Parfums Zsolt Zolyomi. We were interested in knowing what perfumes he had created as we saw that he had been involved in several projects that typically included social events.

It turns out that he is currently hard at work setting up a perfume store in Budapest and being very conscious that this is an area of cultural appreciation that remains to be developed in Hungary, he is directing his efforts in this direction at the moment. His avowed goal is to reconnect with the roots of modern Western perfumery in Hungary, which famously took place in the 14th century with the creation of the Eau de la Reine de Hongrie, a rosemary-based perfume and lotion reputed to have rejuvenated Elizabeth of Kujavia (1305-1380).

Apart from that, his style, what we like to think of as a poetico-realistic style nurtured by nostalgia and memories of happiness but not exclusively, perhaps a little bit à la Christopher Brosius in the US, seems to be a strong one at the moment in his work. We are certainly looking forward to smelling a Hungarian summer in the countryside ......

Here is his answer:

"I am a young perfumer certified in the international Fragrance Academy
class of ISIPCA in June, 2006. Luxe perfumery is still not alive in CEE
countries like Hungary. However my plan is to renew these traditions
dating back to 14th century Eau de la Reine de Hongrie, I still do not
have a finished product of my own brand, Parfums Zsolt Zolyomi. Of course
I do plan to launch a few soon, and I have myriads of olfactive ideas in
my mind, but I open a niche perfumery right now in downtown Budapest and it takes lot of my time and funds. Until then as an independent young
perfumer at the very start of my career I create custom made ambiance,
corporate and private fragrances upon request. And yes, I have creations
loved even by the Paris public when I showed them on an exhibition I
organised on the history of Hungarian perfumery last summer, ie. a strange
fishy one created for an imaginary sushi restaurant and another recalling
the hot aromatic Hungarian counryside summers of my childhood. [...]

Not long before recognizing Anice by Etro I had
created something similar on the pastis idea - malheur, but they did a
very good job with that fragrance, so congratulations!"

His website has an English version too, but which seems to be currently under maintenance.

Comments

I am very happy that Zsolt will release in the near future his own fragrance brand. I heard a lot of good things on him at ISIPCA and I am proud that perfumery is to reborn in Eastern Europe. In the past cosmetic and fragrance industry existed in that part of Europe but after 1990 most of those coutries (like mine also) became only importers or cheap labor work for western companies. Hungary had a brilliant past in luxury items and some great names of cosmetic industry originated in East Europe: Helena Rubinstein or Estee Lauder are the most famous.

Oh yes, let's not forget these names. I thought you might know him and even be from the same class!

Are you writing your new book on perfumery in Eastern Europe in French or Romanian?

I thought Helena Rubinstein came from Poland?... Didn't she?

Agata,

I think that Octavian meant Eastern Europe in general. It depends how you interpret the historical map of Eastern Europe, which can give anyone a headache, and how you assess the political versus the cultural. Helena Rubinstein was from Krakow and born there in 1870 or 1871 or 1872.

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