The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: February 2008

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February 2008 Archive

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February 28, 2008

Parfumerie Générale Louanges Profanes (2008) {New Fragrance}

Parfumerie Générale has a new perfume titled PG 19 Louanges Profanes (Profane Encomia). It is described as an "immaculate, pure, and luminous oriental", the equivalent of "... an olfactive prayer written with the ink of six religious symbols"....

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Article on L'Osmothèque in the NYT {The 5th Sense in the News}

There is an interesting reportage in the New York Times by Chandler Burr about a visit he made to the Versailles-based conservatory of perfumes, L'Osmothèque in L'Heir du Temps (some perfume lovers assuredly would prefer to insert the term "pilgrimage" here).

We learn that Jean Kerléo its director was motivated to found it because as a young perfumer he experienced constant frustration over the fact that more senior perfumers would repeatedly tell him that so-and-so accord he had created had been done better or more beautifully in a previous, disappeared perfume (great perfumers are humble).....

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Halle Berry To Launch Fragrance with Coty: The Rise of The Ethnic Factor in Fragrance & Beauty Marketing {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume} {Trend Alert}

Coty have announced that they will launch a signature perfume fronted and developed by Oscar-winning actress Halle Berry in the spring of 2009.

Not only is this news a consolidation of the celebrity perfume trend, but even more significantly perhaps it also shows how fragrance and beauty brands are reaching out to women from minority communities (see recent news about Shakira) with the more recent inclusions of women with African-American ancestry in the stables of celebrities that sell perfumes (see Avon Imari with Jennifer Hudson, Armani Diamonds with Beyoncé Knowles and the projected scent by Tom Ford fronted by Erykah Badu, still to be confirmed). Even pionneer of the new generation of celebrity fragrances in the 21st century JLo has picked up on this trend by accentuating the importance of her Hispanic heritage with her latest fragrance named with a Spanish name, Deseo, a facet of her perfumes that had not been explicitly stressed before.....

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February 29, 2008

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Union Square (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

Andy Warhol exclaimed one day, "My favorite smell is the first smell of spring in New York". With that, Union Square the latest Bond No. 9 in the Andy Warhol collection starts like a fresh spring bouquet redolent with visions of flowers colored like pastel Easter eggs and then puts on a light creamy white Chinchilla wrap around its shoulders to assuage the chill of too much sappiness too early. The textile of this impression weaves discreet floral motifs intertwined with soft green grassy accents.

Union Square, despite the psychedelic colorings of the Flower silkscreen paintings by Andy Warhol, which inspired it and which are reproduced on the bottles in all of their 10 glorious colorful variations is an ode sung to softness and restraint, perhaps timidity even, an unexpected interpretation of the universe of an artist known for its eccentricity and use of arresting colors and volumes.

But the truth is that Warhol’s favorite scent is known to have been that of the violet, whose characteristic delicacy reveals another side of Warhol, the shy one. If we look at it from that angle, the bottle becomes Warhol’s outer persona while the perfume itself or “jus” as it is sometimes called in the industry offers a glimpse into his interiority......