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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Notes on Lavender in Eaux de Cologne & Further Thoughts on By Kilian Prelude To Love {Scented Thoughts}

Lavandin-Abrialis.jpg
Lavandin Abrialis

Reviewing By Kilian Prelude To Love yesterday, I puzzled over the question of why this young and exclusive niche perfume house had decided to compose a bold citrus-y fragrance, quite literally plugging into a group of notes that from a certain perspective can smell a bit plain. Or perhaps I would not have asked myself this question had the jus smelled different.

The next puzzle I have had in mind is why they had decided to take on the added challenge of doing not only a citrus-y perfume but also do it in a rather minimalist, even straightforward style? It seems to compound the difficulty of attempting to uplift the lemons and mandarins from the level of the mundane. Indeed, the resulting impression makes you perceive the difference existing between metaphorically expensive and literally expensive...

Lavandula-Vera.jpg                                                            Lavandula Vera
I was therefore interested to realize while looking more closely at old formulas for eaux de Cologne, classified hierarchically according to their quality grades, that the best qualities of those do not contain any lavender. Only the ordinary kinds include lavender and it is advised to use either French lavender or the English kind. Remembering the airy impression in Prelude To Love and going back to its formula I note that it contains French lavandin which has a coarser smell still than French lavender and of course English Lavender. Lavandin is also cheaper than lavender. Lavandin Abrialis used here was historically the first clone of the real lavender or Lavandula Vera, enabling higher yields of oil. It is a staple ingredient in cheaper perfume formulations. Calice Becker may well have had considerations other than economic for choosing this improved oil, French Lavandin Abrialis Orpur Oil, but the fact remains that the scent of lavender in an eau-de-cologne type perfume is considered non-essential and seems to be considered as a slight bastardization of the original eau de Cologne.

In this case the proportion of citruses remain important and even rich, so the lavandin does not act as replacement for more expensive citrus fruits and a more accessible and substitutive source of freshness. It even creates here a pleasant oxygenated feel.

I am all ready to accept the argument that rougher materials can be used for a certain desired effect.

Going back also to Escale à Portofino, which smelt more elegant and "expensive", I note that it does not contain lavender nor lavandin.

It may well be that unconsciously we are used to smelling different grades of fineness in eaux de Cologne and that this puts a constraint on the free use of lavender or lavandin in a modern eau de Cologne formula. 

This problem however, I do not feel for a lavender cologne like (vintage) Yardley English Lavender, when the lavender is the main carefully chosen focus.

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