Helena Rubinstein WantedSmell Expensive for Less with these 6 PerfumesNatori by Josie NatoriNorth-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & WinterMy 2009 Halloween Shopping ListMarilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-TiengThe Body Shop Love Etc.Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark FruitsL'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'EstérelRobert Piguet FuturKate Moss VintageFrapin L'HumanistePatriotic Bestseller Perfumes: DiscussFaguenat, Faganat...Fug?Sniffing Rich Orientals in ParisL'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille Dolce & Gabbana Rose The OneGuerlain Idylle - Part 1Guerlain Idylle - Part 2Kat Von D Saint & SinnerCalvin Klein CK Free for MenMariah Carey ForeverWienerBlut KlubwasserPrada L'Eau AmbréeSerge Lutens Fille en AiguillesBritney Spears Circus FantasyYves Saint Laurent ParisienneIdole d'ArmaniGuerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry BlossomHermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane BlancheParfums de Nicolaï Weekend à DeauvilleSerge Lutens Fourreau NoirEssential FaithPenhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented StockMac Naked Honey & AfricanimalChopard CascadeLancôme Hypnôse SensesJuliette Has a Gun Midnight OudNarciso Rodriguez EssenceQueen Latifah QueenBenefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours GinaThe Body Shop White Musk White Hot SummerRochas Eau SensuelleL'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'AmourChloe Eau de ParfumGuerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine ScentsLush VanillaryByredo Bal d'AfriqueZadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2Guerlain MuguetGuerlain Muguet (en français)Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & DiorChanel Cristalle Eau VerteChristian Dior Escale à PondichéryFrédéric Malle Géranium pour MonsieurGobin-Daudé Sous Le BuisRoger et Gallet Bois d'OrangeMontale Patchouli LeavesStetson All AmericanStephen Jones by Comme des GarçonsGivenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'OrangerYves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'HommeYves Saint Laurent l'HommeThe Sex Factor in Men's FragrancesNina Ricci Love by NinaHermès Kelly Calèche EDPAnnick Goutal Un Matin d'OrageGuerlain La Petite Robe NoireSerge Lutens Nuit de CellophaneParfums MDCI Péché CardinalHermès Vanille Galante - Part 1Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2
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 These colognes are not on my list, but the picture and the advert are great for illustrating what most men reportedly look for in a perfume
The other day I got the following candid response under an older post, in the section found below the list of nominees for the 2008 Fifi Awards (slightly edited):
"Hi, I just want to know what are the sexiest and most attractive fragrances for men, thank you"
The part where the commenter wrote "I just want to know..." is worth its weight in gold or should I say, civet? The word "just" seems to be glowing in the darkness of our common misconceptions. It translates as: I (barely) and politely listened to what you had to sayt but now let's talk about the real business at hand because I am a man on a single-minded quest and I need your help. The comment, in a rather sophisticated fashion actually, is signed "man" to convey even more straightforwardly the bare simplicity of this message-in-a-bottle. Like the Unknown Soldier, there you have an anonymous Unknown Man who absolutely knows that what he wants, every other man wants. Full stop. Hence a spontaneous claim to universality. Forget about the Kultur, the aesthetic appreciation, the perfumes-under-the-limelight, the fragrances that schmooze, the frisson of newness, the challenges of pushing back the boundaries of perfume technology. Just talk to me about what really matters under those blue heavens: Sex, Seduction, the desire to be irresistible.
The interesting part is that a man bent on seducing needs a woman to guide him in his olfactory choices as women are the ones that care most about how a man smells. Indeed, according to Donald A. Wilson and Richard J. Stevenson in Learning to Smell: Olfactory Perception from Neurology to Behavior,
"At a psychological level, women report that a man's smell is the most important determinant of attraction, and, not surprisingly, given this emphasis on smell, women spend something approaching 3.4 billion US dollars per year on scented products (Hertz & Cahill, 1997)"
At a behavioral level, the data is "somewhat more equivocal."...
This finding however does not cover the reasons why culture has made it
such that men used to offer perfume to women, not the reverse, and why
women are not more interested in men's fragrances. Brought to its
logical consequence, one should be bumping into throngs of women
sniffing obsessively in the men's perfumes aisles to scent their mates.
Instead women translate that importance given to olfaction in sexual
attraction as their having to smell the part. What a reversal. And men?
They are ready to love all their lives the perfume you were wearing
when they fell in love with you, is a pretty good bet.
This
basic sexual or narcissistic pulsion was magnified as if put under a
monstrous lens by modern myth-maker Patrick Süskind. Remember
Jean-Baptiste Grenouille in Perfume, and more particularly that
orgiastic scene as it was visually rendered in the movie adaptation by
Tom Tykwer? The be-all and end-all perfume is called something like
Power Over The Erotically Frenzied Masses or Adoration of the Crowd. If
Süskind had more in mind Hitler and the heritage of Nazism than a
Latin-lover crooner of the Julio Iglesias obedience, men who have only
a passing interest in fragrances have more in mind a perfume that sings
a croon to the girls and makes them go all languid and weak in the
knees.
It just makes one realizes that perhaps the fragrance
industry ought to officially recognize that sexual attraction is the
cornerstone of perfumery, take off those slip covers from the animalic
figurative foots of the living room furniture that the Victorians once
put there in the 19th century and set up some Sex Fragrances Awards of
the Year to recognize those compositions that appropriately deal with
the problem. Or how about, say, the Sensual Awards of the Year so that
not everyone flee away from the room. As a 1965 advice book on marriage entitled Ideal Marriage: Its physiology and Technique stated, "In
general, sexual odors and all strong physical odors have a negative or
repulsive effect on persons of culture at the first stages of approach..." So
let us not frighten away, yet remind people of bare essentials, like the man
did. It is, we have to recognize, the most instinctual reason for
wanting to borrow the scents of nature and imagination: to be
attractive, to the other. Men, in particular, in contrast with women,
cite their desire to seduce women as their # 1 motivation for spraying
on cologne. Women may love perfume more, but men have taken their
evolutionary cues. In exchange, women may not be attracted that much to
their own lipsticks, unless it's scented, but they know that men are
visual creatures and so they comply.
The beauty of it all is
that it sounds as if, otherwise, man wouldn't even bother or care to
reach for a perfume bottle. It is somehow in recognition of a feminine
principle of olfactory pleasure, then perhaps also as linked to the
memories of mothers and former lovers, that a man will deign devote
time and thoughts to the perfuming gesture. Schopenhauer would have
said that perfume helps realize our fundamental human condition and the
reason why we feel erotic love, the instinct of reproduction. Perfume
as love trap first and foremost. Try to find out
As in
medicine, no cure is absolutely guaranteed. Causality, chance,
perversity intervene. But thinking about that question made me turn to
my one authentic source of information, my reptilian brain. The
colognes I list below are fragrances that for one reason or another,
culture and experience intervening, evoke a particularly sensual
masculine atmosphere, in an immediate, instantaneous way. Perhaps a
good test of the effectiveness of this type of sexy fragrances is to
do, not a blind test, but an insta test. Don't think too hard. Does it
make you think of something sexual rather than tuberose, leather or
pepper? If the answer is "man", "man's armpit", "man's coat", "man's
skin", "bedsheets with a man in them", "a man's idealized sensual
aura", then it's what you were looking for.
Perfumers do not let on
their tricks very often but Christopher Sheldrake did mention once that
the profession makes use of what they call a "bedroom accord" in some fragrances.
Look
also for feelings of intimacy, an impression of the dimming down of the
lights in a room, metaphorically speaking, a hushed atmosphere, a sensation of rumpled
clothes and dry hot skin to suggest "steaming hot".
Part 2 with the list is tomorrow! Maybe I'll have more than my eleven insta-reviews by then, we'll see.
Photo credit for 212 Sexy Men: Jose Tomas Moran
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Comments
Well I, for one, get weak in the knees when a man smells good. I'm a sucker for a great sexy men's perfume.
Posted by: Paula | February 26, 2009
I have had about 20 different men's cologne over the years. I've smelled about 95% of them and my favorite by far hands down is still the DRAKKAR NOIR. It is not real strong it's just right and you can wear it anywhere for any occasion.
Posted by: tim schulte | March 6, 2009