Initially launched in 1946 by the fashion house of Carven, Ma Griffe (My Signature) created by the perfumer who also imagined Tabu by Dana, Jean Carles, had become barely recognizable in the recent period. The formula had been considerably cheapened. I smelled it a couple of times over the past two years at Le Bon Marché and Sephora and my reaction each time was one of disbelief and disgust. Why did the manufacturers even bother to pretend it was still Ma Griffe, or even a fine fragrance at all?
Today's random sniffage yielded the fact that the perfume has been reformulated once more but this time, faithfully and up to snuff....
Hoping for the best but expecting the worst, I pulled out a tester of Ma Griffe at Les Galeries Lafayette noticing that the outer packaging, the box, seemed more textured and better-quality-looking than in recent memory.
The Eau de Parfum which is sold currently, I am happy to report, recreates the unique personality of the original with its contrast of green, citrusy and resinous ones. It's a cool and warm green scent, with an unmistakable signature. The latter one has been recaptured, complete with its slightly peppery facet and its peculiar sensation of sweetness, one that you do not find anymore on the market where "sweet" more often than not connotes candy or caramel. As faithfully as ever, it features that green note called "vert de gardénia" which is meant to capture the scent of gardenia buds about to bloom.
I have just one reservation. While the personality of Ma Griffe has been faithfully reconstituted, its sillage could be more tenacious, especially for an Eau de Parfum.
A 100 ml EDP is priced at 90€.