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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Serge Lutens L'Eau Froide (2012): The Pure and The Impure {New Fragrance}

eau_froide_lutens_words.jpgSerge Lutens will launch a new perfume at the beginning of 2012 called L'Eau Froide (Cold Water). It is a second chapter in his exploration of the thematic of water, which he presented las year as being the opposite of perfume...

L'Eau in 2010 was the exact - in appearance at least - antithesis to his previous work known for its sense of full-bodied intensity, ripeness of flavors and smells, and complexity.

It played more softly on another characteristic of his work, subtlety. But it also seemingly tried to shoot itself in the foot by declaring itself dead-tired of smells. The world was choking on too many perfumes.

This manifesto came as a shocking paradox to faithful Lutens followers who were still waiting for the master to shake awake the rest of the world from their olfactory slumbers. To them pronouncing the word "clean" as in a "clean fragrance" was like uttering the name of the Antechrist.

Smelling L'Eau up-close though revealed already then more layers and texture and in particular, an undiclosed accord of incense creating an effect of "Liquid Smoke" of sorts.

L'Eau Froide turns clearly to incense this time, showcasing a specific note of Somalian incense which was selected for its capacity to evoke marble-cold coldness. While Serge Lutens acknowledges that a measure of coldness can be experienced with incense, with its sensation suggestive of a cold church (see review of his Encens et Lavande), this time L'Eau Froide is much more than suggestive in this regard.

The author said that he wanted to explore a different kind of freshness. The cold in the new fragrance should awaken the skin at first, he says. Then he goes on to present L'Eau Froide as designed to form a protective shield around the body, mixing and fusing with air to shield it from external impurity.

But as he concludes momentarily, water becomes pure only after it has known impurity and you cannot experience it as pure iif you do not know what impurity is.

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Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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