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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Etat Libre d'Orange Bijou Romantique (2012): Is it Making Fun of Aspirational Luxury Perfumery, or Not? - Tordra t-il le Cou aux Stéréotypes du Parfum de Luxe? (2012) {New Fragrance}

elo_bijou_romantique.pngThe latest opus by Etat Libre d'Orange, the Parisian perfume house with an itch for irreverence has been suavely baptized Bijou Romantique (Romantic Jewel) (I almost wrote "Bisou (Kisu) Romantique" which would have been very cute, you have to admit) Knowing the house, one could have expected a name going more in the direction of "Romantic Jewels" -- cue in snorts and giggles in the background to go with what could have only been interpreted as a deliberately improper allusion...

Le dernier-né de la maison de parfum, se voulant très irrévérente, dénommée Etat Libre d'Orange répond au doux nom de Bijou Romantique (j'ai failli écrire "bisou romantique", ce qui aurait été très mignon, avouez-le). Connaissant la maison, on aurait pu s'attendre à un nom allant plutôt dans la direction de "Bijoux Romantiques" -- imaginez force pouffements de rire en arrière-fond pour accompagner ce qui n'aurait pu être interprété que comme une allusion volontairement déplacée...

But no, we have this time only one bijou, which is on top of it, romantique. What strikes you is to see how this jewel of a niche scent is described using a compilation of the best and brigtest stock phrases from ad copies usually seen in the luxury perfumery sector which is never afraid of pushing up the antes in this regard -- what savvy communication pros call "aspirational" discourse. Check it out for yourself,

"...the portrait of a lady is revealed. She is an idealised woman, a brilliant object of beauty as sought after as a sapphire, or a diamond. Her worth transcends the glimmer of jewellery."

Say again, where are we right now? Are we on Place Vendôme? The Marais house is not ready to lose face quite yet however. We are promised in the midst of these rutilating aspirations a dose of "subversion" at the same time that there will be "harmony", otherwise we would not be lodged at 69, rue des Archives, would we?

Mais que nenni, nous avons cette fois-ci un seul bijou, lequel est de plus, romantique. Ce qui frappe c'est comment ce bijou de parfum de niche est décrit comme ce que la parfumerie de luxe offre de meilleur en matière de discours "aspirationnel" comme aiment à dire les pros vraiment lucides de la communication. Voyez par vous-mêmes,

"...le portrait d'une grande dame est révélé. Elle est une femme idéale, un brillant objet de beauté aussi recherché qu'un saphire, ou qu'un diamant. Sa valeur transcende l'éclat des bijoux."

Non mais, où se trouve t-on? Serait-on Place Vendôme? L'honneur est sauf cependant. On nous promet du "subversif", en même temps que de "l'harmonie", sinon on ne serait plus sis au 69, rue des Archives.

The composition is signed by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui who already created Like This by Tilda Swinton for the house.

Top Notes: Italian Bergamot and Lemon, Pink Pepper Essence, Ylang-Ylang

Heart Notes: Clary Sage, Tuscan Iris, Evee®, JE Coco®,

Base Notes: Haitian Vetiver, Benjoin, Vanilla

Available now at ELO and Escentual.com

La composition est signée par la parfumeuse Mathilde Bijaoui qui a déjà créé Like This de Tiilda Swinton chez Etat Libre d'Orange. 

Notes de tête: Bergamote italienne, citron, Essence de baies de poivre rose, Ylang-Ylang

Notes de coeur: Sauge sclariée, Iris de Toscane, Evee®, JE Coco®,

Notes de fond: Vétiver haïtien, Benjoin, Vanille

Disponible dès maintenant chez ELO et sur Escentual.com

 

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Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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