Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin (2014) {New Perfume}

atelier_cologne_santal_carmin.jpg French niche perfumery brand Atelier Cologne have issued a new fragrance in their Collection Métal called Santal Carmin cologne absolue [pure perfume], which is long, descriptive way of saying that while they started out with an eau de cologne concept, they are now well beyond that point...

Santal Carmin starts with the beginning of a story line, which you are supposed to complement with your own experiences and daydreaming,

He had a spark from an early age, with a sharp intuition and limitless curiosity. One day they would call him a revolutionary. The moment had come to fight for his dreams and bring his ideas to the world. Possibly a new era would begin.

While the brand uses the notion of "pure perfume", the concentration of the juice is given at 18% which is not recognized as a concentration for extraits which ought to be closer to 30%.

The composition signed by perfumer Jérôme Epinette opens on bergamot from Calabria, limette from Mexico, saffron from India followed by sandalwood from New Caledonia, gaiac wood from India, and white musc. In the base notes there are papyrus from India, cedarwood from Texas and vanilla from Madagascar.
Epinette works a lot with another niche fragrance label, Byredo, and now also & Other Stories, which makes you think that perfumers are a lot like doctors. They know much more than they are allowed to divulge and normally need to adhere to strict ethical standards in order not to end up disclosing ideas from one brand to give them to another one.

Atelier Cologne have upped their prices to new stratospheric highs as a follow-up to their success as one of the emerging, then established niche perfume brands. The justification is that their bottles are now covered in real gold and can boast even more qualitative ingredients.

MSRP for the new scent are $195 for 100 ml, $265 for 200 ml and $295 for the Ecrin Absolu, the latter two options include a 30 ml travel spray of one of the brand's perfume excluding the Collection Métal. The priciest tag includes a gift box too.

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