The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: March 2006

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Scented Quote of the Day, from Françoise Sagan:

"Doesn't perfume derive its beauty from that sensation of a time that doesn't flow, but soars? Everything in this world is but smoke.

The word perfume comes from the Latin where it meant: through smoke."

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Index of New Perfumes 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009; New Fragrances in Chronological Order {New Perfumes}

Alphabetical Index of New Perfumes in 2009

Alphabetical Index of New Perfumes in 2008

Alphabetical Index of New Perfumes in 2007

Alphabetical Index of New Perfumes in 2006

Relative Chronological List of New Fragrances

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Scented Thoughts: A field of Eiffel Towers & Flowers

I miss my home city, Paris, and so I evoke her through images, words, and...scents. Here, the Eiffel Towers almost smell of flowers. A fabric for a coquettish boudoir where perfumes mingle with the imagining of fresh-cut flowers and the odor of steel?

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Scented Thoughts: The Archangel Michael, The Demon, and The Salamander

This is where part of me lives, St Michel in the Latin Quarter of Paris. Good old Archangel Michael is slaying evil, a demon with wings and a tail, amidst the bubbling waters. Once a year, at least it used to be so, the students from the faculty of medecine, called "les carabins" literally take possession of the surrounding streets, throwing flour and eggs at passersby and then emptying bottles of shampoo in the fountain in order to complete their rites of passages. The waters turn to overflowing froth until the municipality has to intervene.

Not far from the square proper, there is another mythical animal, a salamander made of stone and gracing an antique portal that very often smells of an incongruous and acrid pee left by passersby, glad to find some modest shade in its corner during the day or at night, the shadows. The house of Gabrielle d'Estrées, mistress of François Ier used to be located there where she borrowed for herself the emblem of her lover.

I find now in this antique stone animal a symbol of my childhood as I remember how I used to contemplate it or glance at it while playing the "marelle" on the street with the grocer's son. It represents for me a world that endures, somehow, the representation of a faithful animal that never lives the house and waits for you to return from your travels, your long exiles. It was there even before I left and will be there long after I die, at least I hope so. And it is scented in the sense that memory is most extraordinarily composed of lingering smells and perfumes.

Top photo by Mimi Froufrou

Previous Posts in Scented Thoughts:

Scented Thoughts: A field of Eiffel Towers & Flowers

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The Buzz

My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2

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PERFUME REVIEWS - PERFUME HOUSES Q to Z {Index}

PERFUME GUIDE - PERFUME BRANDS & HOUSES Q to Z

Queen Latifah

• Queen (2009)

Ralph Lauren

• Ralph Wild (2007)

Réminiscence

• Jammin (2006)
• Patchouli (1970)

Robert Piguet

• Visa (2007 re-edition)
• Baghari (original)
• Baghari (2006 re-edition)
• Fracas for Men

Rochas

• Eau Sensuelle (2009)
• Poupée
• Eau de Rochas (1970)

Roger et Gallet

• Bois d'Orange (2009) New!

Sali Oguri

• Persephone

Salvador Dali

• Salvador Dali Pour Homme

Santa Maria Novella

• Angels of Florence (2006)

Sarah Jessica Parker

• Covet (2007)

Sean John

• Unforgivable Black & Unforgivable Woman Black (2008)
• Unforgivable Woman (2007)

Serge Lutens & (Les Salons du Palais Royal - Shiseido)

• Fille en Aiguilles (2009)

• Nuit de Cellophane (2009)

• Five O' Clock Au Gingembre (2008)
• Louve (2007)
• Sarrasins (2007)
• Chypre Rouge (2006)
• Encens et Lavande (1996)
• La Myrrhe (1995)
• Mandarine Mandarin (2006)
• Rousse (2007)
• Un Bois Vanille (2003)
• Sa Majesté La Rose (2000)

• Clair de Musc (2003)

Sharon Bolton Scents

• Luv

Sisley

• Soir de Lune (2006)

Sonia Rykiel

• Belle En Rykiel (2006)

Stephen Jones

• Stephen Jones EDP (2008) New!

Stetson

• All American (2009) New!

Tann Rokka

• Kisu (2001)

The Body Shop

• Love Etc. (2009)

• White Musk White Hot Summer/Eté Tropical (2009)

• White Musk Intrigue (2008)

• White Musk (1981)

• White Musk for Men (2007)

Thierry Mugler

• Innocent Rock (2008)

• Angel MEN Pure Coffee (2008) Limited Edition
• Innocent Summer Flash Eau Malicieuse (2006)
• The Coffret Collector for Perfume, The movie (2006)
• Review of Perfume the Movie

Tom Ford

• Black Orchid Voile de Fleur (2007)
• Black Orchid (2006)
• Private Blend: An Overview (2007)

Tommy Hilfiger

• Tommy Girl 10
• Dreaming (2008)

Tsi-La Organics

• Kesu, Ilang Ilang, Kizes (brief reviews)

Van Cleef & Arpels

• Murmure (2002)

Voluspa

• Apricot Nectar (2008)

Weil

• Zibeline (1928)

WienerBlut

• Klubwasser (2009)

Worth

• Courtesan (2005)

Yves Rocher

• Neonatura Breath-Souffle (2007-2008)
• Neblina (1999)
• Iris Noir (2007 France) (2008 USA)
• Rose Ispahan

Yves Saint Laurent

• Parisienne (2009)

• La Nuit de L'Homme (2009)

• L'Homme (2006)

• Opium Eau d'Orient Poésie de Chine for Women (2008) - Limited Edition
• Elle (2007)
• M7 (2002)
• Opium Pour Homme

Zadig et Voltaire

• Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1: Scent of a Fallen Angel (2009) New!

• Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2: Patchoulait (2009) New!

Zara

• Rosa Bulgara (2008)
• Flor de Azahar (2008)
• Lirio de Agua (2008)

Zents

• Ore

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PERFUME REVIEWS - PERFUME HOUSES & BRANDS I to P {Index}

PERFUME GUIDE - PERFUME BRANDS & HOUSES I to P

Il Profumo

• Musc Bleu (2004)

Indult

• Isvaraya (2007)
• Manakara (2007)
• Tihota (2007)

Inis

• A Rose

Institut Très Bien

• Cologne à la Française
• Cologne à l'Italienne
• Cologne à la Russe

I Profumi di Firenze

• Melograno Selvatico

Isabel Derroisné

• Ilaya (2007)
• Rose Divine (2006)

Isabela Capeto

• Isabela Capeto (2007)

Jacomo

• Jacomo For Her (2005)

Jean Patou

• Eau de Patou
• 1000 de Patou (1972)

Jean-Charles Brosseau

• Fleurs D'Ombre: Violette-Menthe
• Fleurs D'Ombre: Rose (2006)

Jeanne Arthès

• Guipure & Silk
• Sultane

Jean-Paul Gaultier

• Fleur du Mâle (2007)
• Gaultier2 (2005)

Jennifer Lopez

• Live Luxe (2006)
• Deseo (2008)

Jesus Del Pozo

• In Black (2005)

Jessica Simpson

• Fancy (2008)

Jo Malone

• Pomegranate Noir (2005) & Tasting Kit (2008) - Part 1

• Lotus Blossom & Water Lily (2008)
• Dark Amber & Ginger Lily (2008)
• Red Roses (1996)
• White Jasmine and Mint (2007)

John Galliano

• John Galliano (2008)

John Varvatos

• John Varvatos (2003-2004)

Jovan

• White Musk (1991)

Jovoy

• Chypre (2006)
• Oriental (2006)
• Poudré (2006)

Juozas Statkevicius

• Juozas Statkevicius/Josef Statkus Eau de Parfum (2006)

Juicy Couture

• Dirty English (2007)

Juliette Has A Gun

• Midnight Oud (2009)

• Citizen Queen (2008)

Kai

• Kai Fragrance Oil (2000)
• Kai Eau de Parfum (2006)

Kate Moss

• Vintage (2009)

Kat Von D

• Saint (2009)

• Sinner (2009)

Kenzo

• Jungle pour Homme (1998)

• KenzoPower (2008)
• Vintage (2008) - Limited Edition

Knize

• Knize Ten or 10/Part I (1924)
• Knize Ten or 10/Part II (1924)

Koto Parfums

• Hello Kitty (2008)

L'Occitane en Provence

• Labdanum de Séville (2009)

• Mimosa de l'Estérel (2009)

• Myrte - Notre Flore ou Les Quatre Vents (2007)
• Ruban d'Orange (2006)

Lalique

• Perles de Lalique (2006)

Lancôme

• Hypnôse Senses (2009) New!

• Magnifique (2008)
• Peut-Etre (1937-2008)
• Hypnôse Homme (2007)

Lanvin

• Arpège Pour Homme

L'Artisan Bohême

• Fil de Soie

L'Artisan Parfumeur

• Havana Vanille (2009)

• Côte d'Amour (natural & organic) (2009)

• Méchant Loup (1997)

• Fleur de Liane (2008)
• Dzongkha (2006)
• Fleur D'Oranger 2005
• Fleur d'Oranger 2007
• Voleur de Roses (1993)

• Thé pour un Eté (1996)

Laura Tonatto

• Eleonora Duse

Le Labo

• Tubéreuse 40, part I (Q & A with perfume house founder Fabrice Penot about the creation of this perfume)
• Tubéreuse 40, Part II: the review proper

Léonard

• Balahé

Le Palais des Reines

• Huile Divine Musc Blanc (ca. 2003)

Le Parfum d'Interdits

• Absolument Absinthe (2006)

Les Bains du Marais

• Musc Blanc

Les Néréides

• Impérial Opoponax
• Musk Samarkand (2006)
• Oriental Lumpur
• Patchouli Antique

Les Nez: Parfums d'Auteurs

• L'Antimatière (2006)

Les Parfums de Rosine

• Un Zéphir de Rose (2008)
• Diabolo Rose (2007)
• Rose d'Eté
• Rose Kashmirie (2007)

Lobogal

• Lobogal pour Lui (2006)

L'Occitane en Provence

• Ruban d'Orange (2006)
• Blossom Dew/ Rosée de Fleurs

Lolita Lempicka

• Lolita Lempicka Fleur Défendue - Forbidden Flower (2008) Limited Edition

Lush

• Vanillary (2009)

• Ginger Fragrance

Mac Cosmetics

• Naked Honey (2009) Limited edition

• Africanimal (2009) Limited Edition

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

• Bois de Turquie (2008)
• George Sand
• La Reine Margot (2007)

Mariah Carey

• Forever (2009)

• M (2007)

Maria Sharapova

• Maria Sharapova

Marilyn Miglin

• Fo-Ti-Tieng (1977/2006/2008)

Marcel Rochas

• La Rose Eau de Jeunesse (1949)

Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances

• Summersent (2007)

Miller Harris

• Note de Peau (2008) (Limited Edition)

• Figue Amère (2002)
• Coeur d'Eté
• Fleurs de Sel (2007)

Molinard

• Une Histoire de Chypre (2007) - A collaboration with Aedes de Venustas
• Jasmin (1860)
• Chypre d'Orient (2007)
• Pêche de Vigne (2007)

Mona di Orio

• Lux (2006)
• Amyitis (2008)

Montale

• Patchouli Leaves

• White Musk (ca. 2003 - 2005)

Moschino

• Couture! (2004)

Nanette Lepore

• Love Bird (2007)

Narciso Rodriguez

• Essence (2009)

Nez à Nez

• Overview
• Atelier d'Artiste

Nina Ricci

• Love by Nina (2009) (flanker) New!
• Coeur-Joie (1946)
• Nina Ricci (The 2006 version)
• L'Air du Temps (1948)

Norell

• Norell (1967)

Novaya Zarya

• Siberian Barber no.1

Origins

• Shedonism (2007)

Paco Rabanne

• Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973)

Paris Hilton

• Can Can (2007)

Parfum d'Empire

• Osmanthus Interdite (2007)

Parfumerie Générale

• Intriguant Patchouli (2005)
• L'Ombre Fauve (2007 Limited Edition)
• Un Crime Exotique (2007)
• Cadjméré (2007)

Parfums de Nicolaï