The Buzz

The-Buzz-Bee-5.jpg
My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


Scented Facts: Jicky and Gender


Jicky was created in 1889 by Aimé Guerlain. It is not only considered to be the first modern fragrance through its invention of the now classic 3-tiered structure comprising the head, heart, and base notes, as well as the introduction of the combined use of synthetics and natural essences, it is also a perfume that attempted to reverse a trend that rested on the rigid codification of gender categories. This conservative trend emerged in France after 1820, during the Second Restoration, when the bourgeois mentality imposed its mark more decisively upon society, moralizing the use of perfumes and deriving its ideas about the propriety of certain scents from the triumphant hygienist movement. In this context, Aimé Guerlain is reported to have said that he wanted to create,

"an audacious, vigorous, and quasi revolutionary perfume: the perfume of an amazon, difficult to decipher, of which you wouldn't be really able to tell whether it was meant to be for a man or a woman."

And so it was; disconcerted by the novelty of the concept, women started adopting it en masse only after 1910 while men, meanwhile, decided it would be theirs. Today, despite Aimé Guerlain's efforts at creating a unisex fragrance, Jicky is still not considered to be gender-free and in a new historical twist, has mostly come to be considered a feminine fragrance and marketed as such.

Comments

Thanks for the bit on Jicky and Gender. I wanted to learn about this scent and someone at BaseNotes directed me here. I'm most greatful. I did think Jicky was a men's frag. and indeed it was at one time. I learned a lot.

Michael Storer
designer of Monk, Djin and Il Giardino

Hi Mike,

Thank you very much, glad my notes helped. It's nice to meet you too. I read your interview on Jenny's blog and ever since then have wanted to sniff Monk, and the others too, but the former grabbed my attention I must say. It's on my to-do list:)

Post a comment

Latest Comments

Adarkisanna on Strange Article on Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss {Fragrance News} {Scented Thoughts} : Hi all wanted to introduce myself!! I look forward to being part ...

zh on Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One (2009): Fronted by Scarlett Johansson {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} : I'd definately buy this..I am a fan of D&G specially the ONE ...

Cornelius on Two Versions of the Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci Commercial + The Behind-the-Scenes {Perfume Images & Adverts} : I liked it. So much useful material. I read with great interest.

Alyssa Faria on L'Eau Neuve, Le Vétiver by Lubin {New Perfumes} : Dear Sir/Madam, I am a student at Tiffin Girls School, and am ...

Tara on LL Bean Personalized Ice-Cream Bowls for Red Heads, Blonds, Dark & Light Complexions Etc. {Beauty & Society} : Thank you so much for this information! I've just ordered my bowls.

Loie on 25th Anniversary of Tova Signature Fragrance {Perfume News} : Come on Tova Borgnine, Please bring back the original tova singature perfume. ...

WASIF SALEEM on Swiss Army Victorinox Moutain Water + A Secret Scent (2008) {New Fragrances} : I am very fond of perfumes and just heard about your quality ...

Alica on New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways} : wrinkles and dry skin but oily T is my problem plus graying ...

Mario on Serge Lutens Fille En Aiguilles (2009): Medicine Mandala with a Sense of Humor or Enlightenment Not Guaranteed {Perfume Review} : Never have I read such a luscious and more evocative description of ...

Merricat on New AminoGenesis Instant Wrinkle Filler & nuNAAT Hair Mask {Contests & Giveaways} : Brown spots Dry brittle hair

Tammy on The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is... : Yay! I'm so excited to smell these. Thanks a bunch :)

George Sand Devotee on Perfume Review & Musings: George Sand by Maître Parfumeur & Gantier : Mimi, a lovely piece, beautifully written. Thanks for telling the story. I ...

DJ Fade on Fergie of Black Eyed Peas Signs up with Avon {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume} : its gonna sell, but I think it's going to smell, Fergie probably ...

Akbar Suleman on Azzaro Pour Homme by Azzaro (1978) {Perfume Short (Review)} {Men's Cologne} : I recently use AZARO and i like it very much but its ...

Laurian on The Winner of the Filles des Iles Perfume Draw is... : yay for tammy !!! enjoy

Monthly Archives

Recent Posts

All original content and translations herein copyright © 2006. All rights reserved; reproduction requires the author’s prior written consent.
You are however welcome to provide a link back to the posts on this site as long as you explicitly mention their authorship, recognize the original source of the information you give, and acknowledge the site of origin.

Powered by
Movable Type 4.32-en