Perfume Review & Musings: Melograno Selvatico by I Profumi di Firenze
Melograno Selvatico means "wild pomegranate" in Italian and refers more particularly here to the pomegranate tree blossom. According to I Profumi di Firenze, the fragrance is based on a 16th century recipe. This is another one in a series of fragrances from their collection which attempts to replicate an antique perfume formula and harks back to the era of the splendor of the Medici.
The line is understated (they do not even seem to have a website; please correct me if I'm wrong) but I find their creations to be consistently interesting as often their perfumes present touches of unmistakable individuality.......
They are also very good quality scents. Another trait I find appealing about them is that they develop very well; they will not start off with a fanfare and then let you down mid-course, stranded in an olfactory purgatory. They actually have a tendency to do the contrary; they would rather underwhelm you at first and then become more interesting with time. On me their staying power is moderate.
Melograno Selvatico starts off with a fresh, green, even balsamic accord that evokes fir. Then it becomes sweeter and turns into succulent flowers for a short while; I detect exotic smells, frangipani and coconut among others. Further down the road it becomes very fruity; I wouldn't be suprised if there were black currant and grapefruit notes because it smells very similar to Fragonard Eau Fantasque. At this point I am thinking that this fruity accord is a bit too conventional, it feels like déjà smelled. However, the next stage becomes more interesting; the scent takes on darker overtones and this is the place where I think of the deep, dark red color of the pomegranate fruit. Just before, I was invited to visualize the pulp of the fruit, now I am led to imagine the outer red and brown layers of the pomegranate. it develops body, becomes spicier, and if it is still sweet at this point, it now evokes dry fruits rather than fresh, juicy ones.
The darker coloring of this passage is also due to the entrance of a subtle chocolatey accord. It soon evolves enough to let you identify this chocolate reference as being cocoa butter. The base remains sweet and dry with vanillic, ambery and balmy (waxy) notes. The drydown resembles a lot that of Poupee by Rochas, but I prefer this one as it is sweeter, slightly powdery, making you think of dark spices and deeply-colored dry fruits.
It is a nice fragrance, with more personality at the end than at the beginning. It is too soon to say whether I will crave it or not, but there is certainly an element of attraction for me in this fragrance. I can see Melograno Selvatico more as a mood fragrance than as a perfume I would want to wear continually. Ambra del Nepal is one from the same line that I would want to wear for the longer run.
You can find it for $79 at Luscious Cargo, Beauty Habit, La Creme Beauty.
Photo is from Luscious Cargo
Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:
Perfume Review & Musings: Fleur d'Oranger 2005 by L'Artisan Parfumeur
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Comments
I am very fond of this line, which I stumbled across in Florence. I spent two days bothering the very nice staff. It is insanely cheap over there; had I realized the difference I would have bought more. They have a number that are not available in the U.S., although the importer (I forgot their name) is working on it. Also in Florence they sell perfumed concentrate that is meant to be mixed into larger bottles of lotion. Those were just wonderful. If I ever get back...
Posted by: marchlion | May 11, 2006
I had heard that they are considerably cheaper in Florence. Even to the point that some people can't bring themselves to buy them in the States.I think that these perfumes capture so many different moods and are so diverse that it would make sense to me that they are sold at prices that encourage you to buy a whole collection of them. It's a lovely line, full of old world charm. Next time I go to Florence...
Posted by: Mimi Froufrou | May 11, 2006
I think the big bottles were 18 euros and the concentrata bottles (small but strong) were 8. Still kicking myself. The whole place has a wonderful apothecary-esque setup. I was traveling very light and didn't want to lug them, but have regretted it ever since.
Posted by: Anonymous | May 12, 2006
Thank you very much for providing this information. I have tried to locate them using Italian search engines, but they seem to prefer not to be too visible on the net, a pity:)
Posted by: Mimi Froufrou | May 12, 2006
Hey, sorry, that was me (March) posting as "Anonymous" regarding the price for iPdF -- not sure why but the comments page is not remembering my personal info and I forget to check!
Posted by: marchlion | May 12, 2006
You know, actually, at first, I thought it was you, but then I saw it had been posted by Anonymous and thought I had assumed wrongly.
I'll try to see if we can do something about the comments page remembering personal info.
Posted by: Mimi Froufrou | May 12, 2006