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About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity 

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THE SCENTED SALAMANDER

New Fragrance Reviews

Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande 

Diptyque Geranium Odorata 

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s



My Perfume Desires of the Week: Men's Perfumes That Are Must-Trys

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In honor of Father's Day I have decided to list some of the men's fragrances that I have been wanting to try or revisit for some time.

• Eau Sauvage by Dior

Eau Sauvage, the myth...Edmond Roudnitska, its creator, one of the most demanding perfumers that's ever walked the face of the earth...its unisex, even universal appeal...what more could I say? Ah, yes, it's a great summer scent too.....


• Equipage by Hermès

I can only remember the elegant, refined impression it left on me when I first smelled it in  the bathroom at a house where I had been invited for a dinner party with my parents. Must revisit it.

• Rocabar by Hermès

It sounded like an awfully sexy masculine scent and it is, see our review.

• Déclaration by Cartier

Because this is a perfume that was recommended by a Marionnaud SA as her top recommendation to make a scent gift that would likely be appreciated, together with Eau Sauvage by Dior. For women, she recommended J'Adore and Allure. I know what she means; all these distillate the right proportions of elegance and sensuality and appear appropriate for many occasions. Déclaration is the only one I don't know yet.

• M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

Because Chandler Burr says it's one of the greatest underrated masculine scents. I can't remember ever sniffing it.

• Monsieur Balmain by Balmain

In my memory it stands out as one of the best citrus scents I've ever had the pleasure of smelling and trying. I wonder if it smells as good today as it did in the past or in my memory. 

• Eau du Coq by Guerlain

I've smelled it in the past but don't remember it distinctly. I would love to see how it smells on my husband's skin.

• Eucris by Geo F. Trumper

Because the name, the bottle, and the literary reference are cool; it's James Bond's fragrance.

• Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

Because it is a 19th century scent that is still in existence today and more importantly still, because it shows how men's scents were conceived of differently then. Flowery scents were not considered to be an assault on masculinity.

• Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules

This one I need to smell on my husband's skin and see if what they say checks out. It is supposed to smell not very distinctive but to be packed with pheromones. 

• Yatagan by Caron

• Knize Ten by Knize

Because some of the folks on Basenotes make it sound like an incredible scent...Belle Epoque Vienna, Roaring Twenties, the scent of a dandy, on a par with Cuir Mauresque, decadent, if it were a whiskey it would be a Lagavulin...damn, where is the Buy it Now button?

I have to go and so that's a good enough reason for stopping here. I just wanted to add that I've recently discovered that Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens smells out of this world on a man, my husband in this case.

Picture is from www.art.com 

5 Comments | Leave a comment

Great list! Folks keep bringing up the Knize Ten, I guess I need to smell it. I'm still playing catch-up in the men's dept.

The Rocabar I ordered online, happy to send you some when it gets here. The Equipage will probably be next as a test fragrance for the Big Cheese -- oh, isn't it leathery and sexy?!? I need to try Yatagan b/c I like the other Caron dude scents... also I recommend trying the Escentric 01 instead of the Molecule 01. The Molecule is just Iso E Super, I think, but the Escentric is the same Iso E Super PLUS pepper, orris and woods, and it is sultry and very unisexy. I believe you can sample both from luckyscent.

Hey, great tip for the Escentric 01!

I tend to put off trying men's scents because, well, there all these other women's scents to try out. Apart from some categories of scents that are very much codified as men's scents - you know, they smell as if you were wearing aftershave - they pretty much are all potentially wearable by everyone.

The one I want to try most is Knize. I have a somewhat vague but very good memory of Equipage. And I'd be glad to try Rocabar.

And I repeat for the benefit of everyone, Ambre Sultan smells so sexy on a man!

I just checked, they can also be sampled through Aedes. By the way, their sample program is superlative and they are as quick as lightning too.

M7 is darn good. Husband wore that one for a while and then defected to Bel Ami and Isfarkand (he loves the woody stuff).

Mmmmm, sounds very alluring. You are exciting my curiosity even more -- I love hidden gems:)

If you think Knize Ten smells good,(I personally don't) then you should really try Knize(or Knize 2) discontinued by the House of Knize some years back. I smelled a cologne on someone near me that was so good I had to find out what it was. I had never heard of it, but the guy was'nt too freaked out to give me info. on it. Never smelled anything better, and I can't find anyone who can help me w/ this fragrance. Can any of you?

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