Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums {Perfume Review & Musings}

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Noir Patchouli (Patchouli Black) by niche perfume house Histoires de Parfums is a wonderful dark and dry rose-patchouli perfume. It is part of the collection Couleurs de Parfum (Colors of Perfumes) which also comprises Blanc Violette (Violet White) and Vert Pivoine (Peony Green).

Noir Patchouli is one of those perfumes that make one irresistibly think of the sound of the crack of a whip as expressive of a perfume's and woman's sexiness. The end suggests that she gives in to her more romantic side.

I must say that this perfume makes my heart beat the chamade (i.e., more quickly) as I come under its charm.

The scent at first is full of nervous energy without being shallow as its impressions are deepened by rich spices. If you enjoy Estée Lauder Youth-Dew, I recommend that you try Noir Patchouli....

The rendition of the patchouli in this scent is sharp, yet very pleasant evoking sensations akin to those felt when inhaling mustard, wasabi, and certainly pepper which it contains. The patchouli also seems pitty and almost boozey. There are dirty herbal overtones.

These sharp impressions are later softened by pruney accents and a fruity-floral heart, and more notably even by a rose that seems to stand singularly on its own. The contrast between the gentleness and suavity of the rose that feels delicate and pink against a dark, black background of earthy sensations is all the more noteworthy since the rose never gets overwhelmed by the strong patchouli but remains distinct, serene, and poised against the contrasted backdrop. The fragrance progressively becomes powdery and soft while keeping an alluring understated earthy and dry character due to the patchouli and spices.

The drydown is soft, delicious, slightly sweet, amberey, and smokey with the tart fruitiness of the rose in counterpoint. At times the fragrance reminds me of Zibeline by Weil as marked animalic nuances of ambergris enrich the scent and accentuates its sensuality. It has some of the charm of a an ultra-feminine scent from the 1950s with sharp soapy nuances as the comparison with Youth-Dew already suggested. It ends up offering the personality of a slightly retro subtle dry and dark powdery spicy rose skin scent infused with the softness and freshness of a Persian rose bouquet.

Noir Patchouli has top notes of patchouli, coriander, cardamom. Heart notes are patchouli, floral bouquet, juniper berries, black pepper. Base notes are patchouli, musk, vetiver, oakmoss, leather, vanilla.

Photo: Histoires de Parfums

You can also read my review of Marquis de Sade 1740 by the same house.

Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

Manakara, Isvaraya, & Tihota by Indult

Rousse by Serge Lutens

Maharanih by Parfums de Nicolaï

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner on January 23, 2007 | Permalink

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