Noir Patchouli (Patchouli Black) by niche perfume house Histoires de Parfums is a wonderful dark and dry rose-patchouli perfume. It is part of the collection Couleurs de Parfum (Colors of Perfumes) which also comprises Blanc Violette (Violet White) and Vert Pivoine (Peony Green).
Noir Patchouli, for me, is one of those perfumes that make me irresistibly think of the sound of the crack of a whip as expressive of a perfume's and woman's sexiness. The end suggests that she gives in to her more romantic side.
I must say that this perfume makes my heart beat the chamade (i.e., more quickly) as I come under its charm.
The scent at first is full of nervous energy without being shallow as its impressions are deepened by rich spices. If you enjoy Estée Lauder Youth-Dew, I recommend that you try out this related concoction....
The rendition of the patchouli in this scent is sharp yet very pleasant evoking sensations akin to those felt when inhaling mustard, wasabi - and certainly pepper which it contains. The patchouli also seems pitty - almost boozey. There are dirty herbal overtones.
These sharp impressions are later softened by pruney accents and a fruity-floral heart - and more notably even by a rose which seems to stand singularly on its own. The contrast between the gentleness and suavity of the rose which feels delicate and pink against a dark, black background of earthy sensations is all the more noteworthy since the rose never gets overwhelmed by the strong patchouli, but remains distinct, serene, and poised against the contrasted backdrop.
The fragrance progressively becomes powdery and soft while keeping an alluring understated earthy and wry character thanks to the patchouli and spices.
The drydown is soft, delicious, slightly sweet, amberey and smokey with the tart fruitiness of the rose offering a counterpoint. At times the fragrance reminds me of Zibeline by Weil as marked animalic nuances of ambergris enrich the scent accentuating its sensuality. The composition has some of the charm of a an ultra-feminine scent from the 1950s with sharp soapy nuances, as I already suggested with my comparison with Estée Lauder Youth-Dew. The blend ends up offering the personality of a slightly retro, subtle, arid and dark powdery spicy rose skin scent infused with the softness and freshness of a Persian rose bouquet.
Noir Patchouli has top notes of patchouli, coriander, cardamom. Heart notes are patchouli, floral bouquet, juniper berries, black pepper. Base notes are patchouli, musk, vetiver, oakmoss, leather, vanilla.
You can also read my review of Marquis de Sade 1740 by the same house.