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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Cuir de Lancôme {New Fragrance} {Fragrance News}

cuir_lancôme.jpg

 
Lancôme will introduce a 6th perfume, Cuir (Leather), in the Lancôme Collection after Mille et Une Roses, Magie, Sikkim, Climat, and Sagamore. It is a re-edition of a perfume that was originally released in 1936 under the name Révolte, before being re-baptized Cuir in 1939 to de-politicize and soften its message......

Cuir Lancôme vintage.JPG

Cuir is described as both a voluptuous and luminous leather perfume with floral, powdery, and balmy facets. The scent was adapted by perfumer Calice Becker in association with Pauline Zanoni. Calice Becker is already known for having reformulated another perfumery classic, Balmain Vent Vert.

The leather accord is based on mainly natural raw materials: birch from North America, an overdose of styrax from Canada, Indonesian patchouli, castoreum, and saffron.  

Top notes are bergamot, mandarin, saffron. Heart notes are jasmine, ylang-ylang, hawthorn, patchouli. Base notes are orris, birch, and styrax. 

According to the Times online it is or should be available at Harrods, £65 for a 50 ml eau de parfum.

"Lancôme’s robust, leathery Cuir de Lancôme Eau de Parfum is strangely moreish. Could it be because it reminds you of a really expensive handbag?"

 (Sources: Osmoz.fr, Times Online, eBay.es)

Comments

"re-baptized Cuir in 1939 to de-politicize and soften its message......"

how revolting is this! maybe this hyprocritical corporate fascist world of today needs a good dose of Révolte right now! Lancome losing their own identity over politically correctness irks me so much. 1936 was a major year of social reform in France, that 's why Lancome had Révolte and Patou Vacances (over the first mandatory paid vacation)

lancome is not lancome, but l'oreal under another name. Cuir, like all relaunched perfumes, (diorama, diorling etc.) has no relation to its fabulous namesake, and, like magie, climat, and all the others, are just so much junk, sold to the gullible!

Just wondering about the "...leather accord is based on mainly natural raw materials: birch from North America, an overdose of styrax from Canada, Indonesian patchouli, castoreum, and saffron."

Is this for the new formulation as well? Would they be using natural castoreum?

This is the only leather I've come to enjoy from a sample. Very lovely, especially in the top notes for me.

thanks for your reply.
Rachel

This is a description for the new Cuir. They do say "based on raw materials" rather than "are raw materials", which would be a way of saying that it is derived from without being the real thing.

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