Cadjméré is the latest perfume creation by Parfumerie Générale whose founder and perfumer is Pierre Guillaume. Like many other perfumes by the same house, the scent draws its inspiration from exotic elements as well as gustatory delights in what is fast becoming a sophisticated gourmand signature for the house in general.
Since the beginnings of the brand, the fragrances have gained more and more in subtlety it seems and Cadjméré reveals a further level of refinement; the ingredients are blended more seamlessly, daring juxtapositions express themselves effortlessly, and the grain of the perfume is simply more refined.......
Of course in the case of Cadjméré, which is I believe, another word for Cashmere, a research on texture would have been warranted. Like its source of inspiration, Cadjméré is silky-soft, "tender and caressing as cashmere", and like another specialty from the region of Kashmir, it also smells of a spicy milky Kashmiri chaï perfumed with green spices, cardamoms in particular. I do not have Bulgari Omnia at home, but it seems quite distinct from it as far as I can remember.
The result is both sexy and gourmand, the latter in a grown-up way. The perfume is multi-faceted with principal aspects of woods (almost camphor-like at one point), powder, spices, gourmand milk, a light floral, musk, and with an interesting undercurrent, resting it seems quite unexpectedly, on a discreet fresh fougère or fern-like accord underneath the warmth of the composition (it smells of lavender and spruce). This dissonant contrast, in principle, is made to feel original, yet in the secret-movement-of-things too. It is rather fascinating.
The perfume is very comforting, cuddly even. It is sweet but it never goes into the territory of overly sweet thanks to the more austere dry woodsy and aromatic resinous notes counterbalancing the milky almost caramel-like indulgence (coconut milk). There is also a delectable saltiness to the scent that tones down the sweetness as well.
As the fragrant winter-like resinous notes unfold, one is tempted to think of a secret Christmas-tree quote hidden within the composition like a faded family picture with an old spruce tree, a token of affection offered to former winter delights.
Cadjméré is also unmistakably sexy. The musk is very present (ambrette seeds), on the dirty, animalic side but tamed down by the elegance of a pashmina shawl scented with spices and the ambiance of a civilized tea party. The dry-down smells of rich and decadent vanilla ice-cream further softened by a dollop of airy chalky whipped cream in the best possible sense, serving as a base for the previously mentioned notes that still continue to evaporate slowly and spice up the blend.
This would be a wonderful scent for fall and winter and will be, I am sure, associated with many good memories.
Notes are rosewood, powdery accord, red tangerine, coconut milk, Myrtle twigs, aromatic sap, Kenyan cypress resin, sandalwood bark, Ambrette seeds, and vanilla.
The perfume will be available from September 18 2007 on the Parfumerie Générale website, 120 Euros for 100 ml. It is already available at the Perfume Shoppe, CAD$130 for 100 ml and CAD$ 90 for 50 ml and at Luckyscent, US$90 for 50 ml, where it can be sampled for $3.