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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Jo Malone Cologne Intense Quartet, in the Words of Perfumer Christine Nagel {New Fragrances 2010}

Cologne-Intense-Family-4-B.jpg
Perfume-review-logo-3-B.jpg{A fragrance review of Jo Malone Rose Water & Vanilla Cologne Intense has been added to the blog!}

{A fragrance review of Jo Malone Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense has been added to the blog!}


After announcing the upcoming release of Jo Malone Cologne Intense collection a few days ago, we received further information about this very representative launch of our times to take place in July 2010. It is representative because it explores a novel structure of associated freshness and depth, New-Depth, which was inspired by the construction and sensory experiences around the Eau-de-Cologne renaissance transitioning out of the 1990s New-Freshness while wanting to move beyond these experiences. It is also exemplary of the Zeitgeist in the manner in which it seeks to fuse the elements of Arabian Middle Eastern olfactory culture with the European one. 

The fragrances are the work of perfumer Christine Nagel who is well-known for her love of the mastery of the ingredients. She mentions on occasion that she likes to "tame" the ingredients, i.e. surmount the material challenges that are inherent to her job.

With the Jo Malone Creative Studio for which she started working in 2009, it is exactly how she operated. Her thought-process revolved around the choice of raw materials in the first place, a fitting approach for the Jo Malone brand in particular which puts emphasis on fragrance pairing and combining. "Each ingredient has a reason for being" Nagel said, "nothing is superfluous"...






After announcing the upcoming release of Jo Malone Cologne Intense collection a few days ago, we received further information about this very representative launch of our times to take place in July 2010. It is representative because it explores a novel structure of associated freshness and depth, New-Depth, which was inspired by the construction and sensory experiences around the Eau-de-Cologne renaissance transitioning out of the 1990s New-Freshness while wanting to move beyond these experiences. It is also exemplary of the Zeitgeist in the manner in which it seeks to fuse the elements of Arabian Middle Eastern olfactory culture with the European one. 

The fragrances are the work of perfumer Christine Nagel who is well-known for her love of the mastery of the ingredients. She mentions on occasion that she likes to "tame" the ingredients, i.e. surmount the material challenges that are inherent to her job.

With the Jo Malone Creative Studio for which she started working in 2009, it is exactly how she operated. Her thought-process revolved around the choice of raw materials in the first place, a fitting approach for the Jo Malone brand in particular which puts emphasis on fragrance pairing and combining. "Each ingredient has a reason for being" Nagel said, "nothing is superfluous"...


According to Jo Malone, Christine Nagel sees this method as being a bold one but one which is bound to yield the results she is looking for. Her goal is to create fragrances "...with impact, heart and soul." She says, "I love to focus on particular ingredients and transform them or look for new associations."

For the Cologne Intense quartet, the perfumer decided to play up this instinctive approach and so decided to put more accent on contrasts "With Cologne Intense, I chose to take potentially ingredients of very high quality to create unexpected yet harmonious fragrances...because when fragrance elicits an emotion, the story begins."

Dominic de Vetta, Global General Manager at Jo Malone explained that "...each of our fragrances is characterized by simplicity, transparency and a certain restraint. Christine shared our philosophy of simplicity as the epitome of elegance, and there is an authenticity and precision about her own work that resonated with us."

Amber & Patchouli is described as a spicy and woody fragrance. The patchouli here underwent a special distillation process to give a patchouli note which feels supple, with a suede-like texture.

Oud & Bergamot is a fresh and modern interpretation of oud thanks to the addition of crisp bergamot and an orange-granite accord which includes natural extracts of orange and lemon.

Reading this description, it incidentally makes me think of Amouage Homage Attar which features oud and which very much feels to me like a fresh and modern attar.

Rose Water & Vanilla is said to be the "21st century translation of the traditional Arabian Rose Mokhalat imbued with a modern Jo Malone note." The rose water is described as sparkling, the vanilla as comforting, the neroli as orangey and biting and the petit grain as sweet, floral and woody.

Iris & White Musk was inspired by the luxurious ingredient, iris root, and is said to be made of "beautifully controlled contrasts." The iris is powdery and airy while the white musk is creamy and animalic. The floral note of Casablanca Lily bridges the two main notes.

A 100 ml bottle is priced at $125.

Source: Jo Malone

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