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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



More French Celebrities Enter The Perfume Ring: Melanie Thierry and Marc Lavoine + An Hexagonal Retrospective


melanie-thierry-cesar-B.jpgMélanie Thierry just received the César prize for "meilleur espoir feminine" (best up-and-coming female actress).

Although celebrity and perfume do not seem to mesh as well in French culture as in American pop culture, lately an effort has been made by French brands to corral in the charm of celebrities to create perfume consumption lust.

This is not to say that there were never French celebrity perfumes. In fact in the early days of the 20th century, you could find a signature perfume by actor Jean Marais, the lover and friend of Jean Cocteau. Earlier than that Josephine Baker, an adoptive Parisian, had her name not only on cabaret posters but on fragrance bottles....

Catherine Deneuve contributed her chypre perfume in 1986, a well-esteemed jus which is now, alas, discontinued. Regine not only opened disco spots around the world but created and continues to create fragrances. Chanel have been instrumental in encouraging this worldview with the seminal hiring of Catherine Deneuve by Jacques Helleu for Chanel No5 and they continue to lead the pack by proposing ambitious perfume commercials filmed by great movie directors and featuring world-famous actors like Nicole Kidman.

But despite these significant inroads show biz celebs for fragrances have been few and far between spanning over the decades and the years rather than the months compared to the recent phenomenon in the United States, which in general can be called a country who knows how to master beauty showmanship. The impact of Hollywood cannot be ignored. 

More recently though, the fragrance industry in France has turned willingly to star power by hiring famous faces to grace their advertising campaigns. Olivier Martinez for L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent was followed by Vincent Cassel of La Haine for La Nuit de L'Homme. Kate Winslet is the new image for Trésor by Lancôme. Kate Moss is the incarnation of Parisienne by YSL. Uma Thurman smolders on the ad for Ange et Démon Le Secret by Givenchy. Before her it was the ex French Primer Minister Dominique de Villepin's daughter Marie Steiss who could be seen on the billboards. Charlotte Gainsbourg wanted and got to be the woman who wears Balenciaga Paris for everyone to see. Even more confidential niche perfume houses like Comme des Garçons and Etat Libre d'Orange have turned to arty celebs like Stephen Jones and Daphne Guinness for CDG and Rossy de Palma and Tilda Swinton for ELO.


marc-lavoine-roitefeld-B.jpgMarc Lavoine and Carine Roitfeld at a Dennis Hopper party last fall

The trend is apparently shaping further with yesterday's announcement that actress Mélanie Thierry who has been in a Krizia ad campaign in the US will be the next icon for an upcoming Yves Saint Laurent women's perfume to be launched this year. Actor and singer Marc Lavoine will also appear in a new advertising campaign for Cerruti 1881 men's cologne from June 2010. The news were published by WWD who nevertheless pointed out that they remained a non-confirmed, yet informed speculation.

The French exception is perhaps that celebrities are more willing to lend their physiques to an advertising campaign than to develop fragrances. Despite the fact that a tradition of celebrity fragrances exists in France, a certain culture of discretion counterbalances its effect.   

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Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

abdellab mahmoudi on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : bonsoir c'est vrai que c'est un parfum à la fois doux et ...

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