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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Hermès Launch New Hermessence: Iris Ukiyoé (2010) {New Fragrance}


Iris-Ukiyoe-Bottle-A.jpgThe house of Hermès will launch their latest and 9th addition to the Hermessence collection of boutique fragrances called Iris Ukiyoé from the end of November 2010. Composed by in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, the perfume is inspired by the genre of Japanese wood-block painting known as Ukiyo-e and meaning "images of the floating world." The perfume seems to refer more particularly within this tradition to the sub-genre of the iris garden (Hana Syoubu) although the press release is not explicit about this.

We are told, among other things, that Ellena is a collector of Ukiyo-e prints and that his perception of iris flowers cannot but be filtered by the visions of masters such as Hokusai (see below) and Hiroshige...

Hokusai-Iris.jpg


The composition is said to center on the iris flower rather than on its roots. Iris Ukiyoé was reportedly created like a Japanese bouquet full of nuances and paradoxes.

The perfumer drew a synthesis of several scents of iris flowers which he cultivates in his garden, looking for their common point.

The result is a composition where the main facets are rose, orange blossom, dewy petals and mandarin.

Stay tuned for a review of the fragrance. But dear readers, let me give you my initial take on it however as I know that many are awaiting for more news about the fragrance.

My first impressions upon smelling just the top of the bottle au débouché, without testing it either on paper or skin, is that it is a pure and fresh composition with an incredible lightness of being which is very much in line with Ellena's consistent adherence to his own style. It is both light and sensual, another of his trademark characteristics. The scent offers an enveloping presence like an ethereal and improbable transparent cashmere stole. And I think that the orange blossom note I kept smelling from my desk came from the closed flacon.

Well, let's see how it all develops further, n'est-ce-pas

Comments

OMG, I think I'm hyperventilating! I can't wait to try this!!!


Come back for the review! :)

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