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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



L'Occitane Fleur Chérie (2010) {Fragrance Review}

 

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Fleur Chérie is the latest perfume launch by L'Occitane en Provence. Its name in French, which one can translate as Beloved Bloom, is another of those cultural references that the Provençal company likes to make to the region of its origins, the Mediterranean. The beloved flower in question is orange blossom or neroli.

The displays are currently strewn with textile star-shaped white orange blossoms. Gray ribbons and white blotters are handy to try to catch the fancy of passers-by. The bottle itself is decorated with a spray of orange blossoms on one of its sides. A makeup collection accompanies the fragrance release.

The brand had released another orange blossom composition, Néroli in 2007, which is much more opulent and oriental and available at a different, higher price point.

Fragrance notes: neroli, blackcurrant bud, fresh notes / sambac jasmine, orange flower absolute, orange blossom water absolute, soft woods, patchouli, cedar, musk...

 

In Fleur Chérie, the headiness of orange blossom was preserved to a certain extent while the taste for clean scents was also paid due homage to. The blend is an exercise in inserting some Mediterranean excess into another kind of excess, the cleanliness trend. L'Occitane could have well gone all the way in the direction of a shampoo of a perfume, but the perfumer seems to have wanted to convey the duality of the flower which can be quite inebriating besides symbolizing purity and innocence. Far from always having been identified with babies' scents as it is today done in French culture or a soothing aroma in general, it was once upon a time codified as a dangerous scent due to its sensual aura.

Fleur Chérie opens on a rush of orange blossom on a background of slightly harsh, raspy white musks which in this case feel a bit vintage, almost aldehydic in their nostalgic, hard tonality evoking the 1950s. There is a rounding off of the scent, thanks to an amber note which feels white and transparent yet also  thickish and syrupy but not overly so. The composition is sweetened with a touch of almondy marzipan reminding you of a similar idea as one found in L'Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d'Oranger 2007 but more accentuated here although not to the point of smelling like a pastry. Ambergris brings further depth to the fragrance which remains innocent yet heady with a hint of languorous abandonment.

The drydown interestinggly releases more of the green and enduringly fresh accents of the fragrance as if the blackcurrant bud mingling with cedar wood brought out better the verdant facet and the citrusy hints of the perfume, once the sweetness had receded a bit. The freshness factor was visibly carefully studied to be lasting.

Despite its sensual leanings, the composition in the end takes stock of the deodorized society and its need for invigorating aromas. It eschews any hint of seriously dangerous dirtiness and pays homage more to the popularity of toiletry scents than it bows ultimately to the innate desire to smolder of the orange blossom.

Fleur Chérie is a pleasant, clean but not too clean and drained-out-of-all-its-blood orange blossom scent. It can be seen as an easy choice for people who like casual, sexy-clean floral fragrances, a bit evocative of a bathroom and of a just-out-of-the-shower atmosphere albeit here mixed with a restrained measure of Mediterranean sensuality.

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