Penhaligon's will launch the last two chapters in their refurbished Anthology collection in July 2011 with Eau Sans Pareil (lit. Water Without Equal) and Esprit du Roi (Spirit of the King). This library of scents consists since its introduction in 2009 of both a mix of faithfully recreated formulae and novel takes on old ideas. The two new creations are presented as creative scents.
Eau Sans Pareil signed by nose Beverley Bayne of CPL Aromas is described as a "shimmering chypre" while Esprit du Roi, "a lush woody citrus" is the work of master perfumer for the house Bertrand Duchaufour...
The now "powdery, wistful and romantic" Eau Sans Pareil which was originally created in 1988 has been "transformed" according to the house.
The Eau de Toilette opens on head notes of aldehydes, neroli, mandarin, bergamot, kumquat, raspberry, pineapple, cypress, pink pepper, tagetes. The heart reveals jasmine, Damascus rose, muguet, orris, ylang, orange blossom, licorice, and clove. The base notes are patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, oakmoss, musk, vanilla, cistus-labdanum, benzoin, amber crystals.
Esprit du Roi, is also originally a product of the 1980s, which does not mean that it reflected the Zeitgeist back then in 1983. Penhaligon's tend to aim for timeless scents. It "returns as a lush woody citrus, heady with swirling scented foliage."
The fragrance revolves around a central accord of tomato leaf, mint and raspberry leaf contrasted with rich florals, warm woods and "potent" musks.
The composition opens on top notes featuring a citrus accord, bergamot, mandarin, cedrat, mint, tomato leaf, davana essence, aldehydes, cardamom absolute. The hearts rests on clove, Egyptian geranium, Madagascan ylang-ylang, jasmine, honeysuckle. Base notes are vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, raspberry absolute, white musk, ambergris, oakmoss and Africa stone. The latter is also called Hyraceum, a fossilized animalistic substance which can be used as a fixative like natural musk or civet.
The perfumes launch on July 11th, 2011 in the brand's boutiques and online in the UK and Europe. Price is £98.
A third Penhaligon's fragrance is set to launch. Initially bapized Fitzrovia, it will now be called Gin in the latest update from the brand.
Via press release
For more reviews of Penhaligon's fragrances, you can check the Index of Fragrance Reviews under the brand name.