Estée Lauder Launch their First Unisex Scent Wood Mystique in the Middle East (2011) {New Fragrance}
Estée Lauder are turning their attention to the Middle East heritage with a new fragrance called Wood Mystique. The composition features the prized scent of agarwood or oud, which is at the source of the cultural shift of the last four years in perfumery from the point of view of an institutionalization process taking place within the perfumer's palette {see Are in the Mood for Oud Aromania?}. There will be a before-oud and an after-oud periodization as the material has evolved from being an exotic addition to becoming a full-blown major perfumery material in Western olfactory culture. Progressively but surely, all the perfume brands have been following suit. In the case of Estée Lauder, the approach can be said to be both global and regional in scope as we see a global American brand proposing an agarwood perfume to be distributed only in select Middle Eastern markets...
Recognizing the deeply-rooted, universal appeal of oud fragrance to both sexes in the region as well as its spiritual dimension, Wood Mystique is marketed as an unisex scent, the first one branded as such by the company. By taking this innovative approach, they are also thus avoiding the potential critique that they are just being followers and latecomers to the oud wave.
To correspond to the tastes of the Middle East, the composition is said to have been perfected so as to convey a sense of luxury and richness for a jus described as "a sumptuous blend of ancient hand-crafted luxury and modern good taste." They also promise that the perfume "is a direct response to Middle East consumers' desire for lavish, elegant fragrances which offer perfumed luxury and a lingering scented trail as "a hidden communicator" of quality and good taste."
Wood Mystique is contructed around a classic rose-oud accord. It opens on top notes of rose distilled, peony petals and pink pepper. In the heart Rose de Mai absolute from Grasse and a rose infusion make up the rose note while being enriched by Egyptian jasmine absolute, Mimosa Provence absolute, Orris Morocco and ylang. The deep notes rest upon patchouli and leather essences, Indonesian benzoin, cedarwood SFE, agarwood and a hint of raspberry. The latter nuance is found in natural oud and so was added here to mimic the full spectrum of the material.
The oud-centric Yves Saint Laurent M7 shows this secondary facet well while by contrast Nina Ricci Deci-Delà used oud in a supporting role to buttress the fruity-floral composition.
Via press release
Previous Posts in New Perfumes:
Hermès Santal Massoïa (2011): More Information
Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactifs 04 London: Of Green Grass & Boiled Sweets (2011)
L'Occitane Rewards Emerging Perfumer Talent with Immortelle de Corse (2011)
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