The Oud Aromania is Here to Stay (2010-2011) - Part II {Trend Alert} {Perfume List}

Arabian_Oud_04.jpg.JPGSince 2009 - when we first proposed to gauge the new, emerging fashion and even admittedly craze for oud perfumes - the trend has not abated but on the contrary taken on the proportions of a small olfactory tsunami. One by one, it seems, perfume houses have each and everyone of them added an oud fragrance to their catalogs. Hermès' Hermessence collection has yet to follow suit, as does Les Exclusifs de Chanel or Serge Lutens, but most of the major and reference perfume houses that you can think of, now have an oud perfume to offer...


Comparable in this respect to patchouli which was first introduced in Europe from India in the mid-19th century, oud has made an entrance into the olfactive culture of Europe which is comparable in its long-term cultural significance, it seems. The drive is justifed in part by commercial considerations. Perhaps even by ego considerations: who can put out the best oud out there? But when the oud note appears as a subtler perfumery effect in a fragrance, you know that it has become part of the established vocabulary of the perfumer.

Like patchouli, it is also metaphorically, classified as a wood note, although it can be argued that agarwood has more of an animalic scent profile and behavior in its capacity to bloom with unsuspecting power at times. In its natural state as an odorant material - which has had to be replaced by synthetic blends most of the time - oud is both wood and animal as in the process of decay of the wood, which gives the much sought-after resin, not only fungus but insect larvae and bacteria are involved in the transformative decomposition process.

Here are some of the references in oud-driven and oud-inspired perfumery since 2009


By Kilian Rose Oud

Byredo Accord Oud

Byredo Oud Immortel

Comme des Garçons Wonderwood

Dior Leather Oud

Chantecaille Kalimantan

Giorgio Armani 1001 Nights Oud Royal

Illuminum Rose Oud

Illuminum Wild Tobacco

Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

SoOud Al Jana

SoOud Hajj

SoOud Nur

SoOud Ouris

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Voluptés


Betsey Jonhson Too Too

Brent Leonesio Untitled #8

By Kilian Incense Oud

Caron Secret Oud

Caron Oud

Creed Royal Oud

Elie Saab Le Parfum

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Illuminum Arabian Amber

Illuminum Scarlet Oud

Jimmy Choo

Memo Shams

Mona di Orio Oud

Nasomatto Pardon

Susanne Lang Untitled #6

The Different Company Oud Shamash

Trish McEvoy Black Rose Oud

Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud

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2 Comments | Leave a comment

  1. Your comparison to the introduction of patchouli into western perfumery is the the most sensible response I've seen to the "I'm so over oud" whine of many blog commenters. It's exactly what I've been thinking, "Fine, move on in your personal exploration, but don't expect the note to disappear from use."

    • Thank you -- yes, I personally do not see why the note should disappear since it enriches the palette of the perfumer. It's also probably been encouraged also by the "pause" taken around the use of oakmoss as companies have had to try to find an IFRA-compliant oakmoss with similar olfactory qualities. They can both address the need for an anchoring, strong, "woody" note.

      I also see some misunderstanding around the pink peppercorn note. It's really not used for originality but rather as an effective and beloved top note.

      Chant Wagner

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