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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



The Different Company Oud Shamash (2011): The New Classic Note {New Fragrance}

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The Different Company, a creative perfumery (as opposed to mainstream, industrial labels) will nevertheless bow to the pressures of popularity with the release of an agarwood composition. Oud has become the new must-have Oriental note and so it seems that every self-respecting house with an eye for both commerce and classicism needs to propose its own oud interpretation. Oud Shamash in the Collection Excessive, like the recent Memo Shams, explores solar mythology to showcase the material. Created by new in-house perfumer for the brand, Bertrand Duchaufour, it will be the second oud-centric composition by the nose who has already signed L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh. Like the former, the new scent reportedly offers a relatively soft variation on the note...

 

On the face of it, it would seem that the release is justified in the first place by the felt need to build a good catalog of fragrances taking into account the tastes of contemporaries and the competition existing between niche houses to corner the market on "difficult", unapologetic notes.

"A spiritual journey to the heart of the Far East, an exclusive fragrance.Oud Shamash starts off with a spicy accord of Pink Pepper, Saffron and Cinnamon. The exploration deepens into the resinous yet mysterious accord of the Absolu of Oud. A luminous alchemy intensified by the sensual heat of amber notes and patchouli .A vibrant and enchanting fragrance which celebrates the Sun God."

The fragrance opens on top notes of saffron, Ceylon Cinnamon, pink peppercorn, davana essence, Jamaican rum CO2. The heart rests on Turkish rose essence, St Thomas (pimenta racemosa), Nagarmotha (see Lancôme Magnifique). The lasting notes are Laotian oud butter, cistus absolute, sandalwood, ambergris, dry and ambery woodsy notes, patchouli, leathery notes, white musks, Bourbon vanilla, tolu resinoids.

Even a cursory reading of the notes evokes another recent composition by nose Bertrand Duchaufour, Frapin 1697. The perfumer I have called in jest the New Pope of Niche Perfumery, as he has recently appeared behind several launches offered by more confidential labels.

The Different Company themselves are upping the rhythm of their releases, Oud Shamash arriving on the heels of Pure Virgin, the last Céline-Ellena work for the house, a soft, white-ambery concoction.

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