The Different Company, a creative perfumery (as opposed to mainstream, industrial labels) will nevertheless bow to the pressures of popularity with the release of an agarwood composition. Oud has become the new must-have Oriental note and so it seems that every self-respecting house with an eye for both commerce and classicism needs to propose its own oud interpretation. Oud Shamash in the Collection Excessive, like the recent Memo Shams, explores solar mythology to showcase the material. Created by new in-house perfumer for the brand, Bertrand Duchaufour, it will be the second oud-centric composition by the nose who has already signed L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh. Like the former, the new scent reportedly offers a relatively soft variation on the note...
On the face of it, it would seem that the release is justified in the first place by the felt need to build a good catalog of fragrances taking into account the tastes of contemporaries and the competition existing between niche houses to corner the market on "difficult", unapologetic notes.
"A spiritual journey to the heart of the Far East, an exclusive fragrance.Oud Shamash starts off with a spicy accord of Pink Pepper, Saffron and Cinnamon. The exploration deepens into the resinous yet mysterious accord of the Absolu of Oud. A luminous alchemy intensified by the sensual heat of amber notes and patchouli .A vibrant and enchanting fragrance which celebrates the Sun God."
The fragrance opens on top notes of saffron, Ceylon Cinnamon, pink peppercorn, davana essence, Jamaican rum CO2. The heart rests on Turkish rose essence, St Thomas (pimenta racemosa), Nagarmotha (see Lancôme Magnifique). The lasting notes are Laotian oud butter, cistus absolute, sandalwood, ambergris, dry and ambery woodsy notes, patchouli, leathery notes, white musks, Bourbon vanilla, tolu resinoids.
Even a cursory reading of the notes evokes another recent composition by nose Bertrand Duchaufour, Frapin 1697. The perfumer I have called in jest the New Pope of Niche Perfumery, as he has recently appeared behind several launches offered by more confidential labels.
The Different Company themselves are upping the rhythm of their releases, Oud Shamash arriving on the heels of Pure Virgin, the last Céline-Ellena work for the house, a soft, white-ambery concoction.