Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa}
As announced earlier, the nose of The Scented Salamander is keen on following African fragrance trails in the coming months. The idea originated in the streets of Paris - well a supermarket really, where a cashier was wafting off deliciously and repeatedly of a very exotic and mysterious concoction - echoed on the skin and clothing of a few other members of the French-African community in Paris strolling by. On search of that scent and its meaning, it led on to new insights into a cultural sphere where fragrance is all-important and ritualized. More on that later on.
We are kick starting the series The Scents of Africa with an interview with Regional Manager Nicholas Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc (IFF). In the interview, we learn more about Africa's number one bestseller, Bint el Sudan. Its scent is pervasive on the African continent where its institutional weight and cultural influence can be compared to that of Chanel No.5 in the West...
Bint el Sudan historically was one of the top selling perfumes in the world; less than 20 years ago 11 million bottles per annum were coming out of Nigeria alone. It was created in the 1920’s by WJ Bush, later to became Bush Boake Allen (BBA.) It is produced in a mineral oil base, not alcohol, that is rubbed onto the skin. It became so successful it was used as currency. The brand was acquired when IFF purchased BBA in 2000. The brand and its label are registered trademarks of IFF. Romance, ritual and religion surround its history. Its name means “Daughter of Sudan." Today BES is still a top seller in Western, Central and North Eastern Africa where it is still very much part of the culture.
In the Southern and Eastern regions of Africa the taste has changed for much more modern, western type of fragrances.
Bint el Sudan is today packaged and distributed through license holders in: Nigeria, Cameroon, Ethiopia, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Kenya, South Africa, Sudan, Zimbabwe, Saudi Arabia for the Middle Eastern Market.
The composition is a blend of natural floral notes with emphasis on Jasmine, Lilac and Lily of the valley, with supporting Woody notes under toned by Musk, Amber and Mossy notes. It's a powerful fragrance which over the 91 years of its life has become one the unmistakable smells associated with Africa. Today's fragrance is essentially the same except for certain modernizations mostly due to changes in raw material availability and toxicological rules and regulations.
Once a product is established any changes in packaging, labelling or smell will result in immediate rejection by customers. Customers are wary of the many fake and adulterated products entering the market. Present packaging dates too from those days, and with the exception of slight modifications to comply with local legislation and the availability of materials, has resisted change. Even trying to cover the girl resulted in the market rejecting the product.
The girl on the original label was photographed by the WJ Bush representative, Eric Burgess in Sudan. He was a keen photographer on his long 3 to 6 month "business trips" through Africa.
It depicts an African girl traditionally dressed in the elephant-hair plaited skirt, wearing the anklet and bracelet, with her dowry and her purse round her neck.
A poster was designed at the same time and this gave Bint el Sudan the advantage of being the first perfume sold in Africa with anything like an advertising campaign.
Merchants travelling by camel caravans took the name from its origins in Khartoum, Sudan to far and distant markets, West to Kano, Nigeria, East to Ethiopia and South to present day Zimbabwe. Not sold in stores but in the market place, at a price the poorer people could afford, it began to be used as currency; so many bottles for so many camels.
Its many uses are shrouded in mystery of religion and ritual; in the beginning it was believed to be used by women for the enhancement of their personal beauty and sex appeal. Later, it became a natural wedding gift where perfume is used for both bride and groom. Because of this, it acquired a reputation as an aphrodisiac for it was liberally used on wedding nights. BES became widely used at circumcision ceremonies, where the entire family heavily scented themselves in their favourite perfume.
Perfume is so much a part of the African way of life that Bint el Sudan was used whenever perfume or oil was, by custom, religion or hygiene purposes required.
In more primitive areas, perfume has the “power” of driving out the “bad man”; Bint el Sudan acquired magical properties.
In Northern Nigeria (Sahara) where dry winds and the sun parch and crack the skin, Bint el Sudan pomade (glycerine base) is used to moisten and soften the skin; Bint el Sudan acquired medicinal properties. It is known to make an excellent bath oil and is extensively used as a dressing for the hair.
Bint el Sudan is so much a part of the way of life for the Africans who, by tradition spend a high proportion of their income on perfumes and oils, that is has become one of the unmistakable smells of Africa -- extract from “Pagans and Politicians” by Michael Crowder published in 1959, Hutchinson (London):
“The theatre was packed. I was sitting next to an ample Jollof
matron, a small child strapped to her back…..A strong scent of
Bint el Sudan manufactured in East London perfumed the room
as the curtains rose to the first dance”
BES is by far the biggest and greatest fragrance Africa has ever known, however there are others that also have their place: Lucky Throw; Sasorabia; Arabiana; 20 Fragrances (Yes this is the name of the perfume); Six Flowers; Mogra; Mitra; Onak; Miss Paris - This one is in an alcohol base, all the others are in mineral oil.
I was born in Africa, Zambia and grew up in Botswana and South Africa, hence my affinity to Africa and its people.
After starting with IFF in South Africa I relocated to Europe. After learning the business my first assignment in 2003 was to Nigeria. Thereafter I became a developing market specialist working in Russia and other developing markets whilst keeping my Africa ties. I have been responsible for the Bint el Sudan brand since 2003.
The first step to success of a fragrance in Africa is its strength. In a hot and humid environment the fragrance has to perform, it has to be noticeable. Therefore sweet fruity and floral notes, spicy notes as well as gourmand and florientals are very popular.
The importance of fragrance in Africa is often under estimated, primarily due to the continent's purchasing power. However as illustrated above, fragrances role in Africa is far greater than a fashion accessory, it can become part of the culture and once accepted Africa may never let it go.
picture sources: eBay; bitalsudan2010.blogspot.com; Etsy: LilyGene (customizable home is where the heart is)
Previous Posts in Perfume Q & A:
Interview with Madeleine Florescu of Madison Perfumery Now in Budapest
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Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone that smelled of perfume. What I do remember is the smell of soap and baby powder. Ghanaians shower at least twice a day because of the heat and humidy.
Posted by: Maddy | December 13, 2011