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Monthly Archives from March 2006

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About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 for People Into the Nitty-Gritty of Smells & Tastes as seen in The NY Times, Independent, Vogue, Elle...By Chantal-Hélène Wagner... The Scented Salamander was the first perfume blog to creatively establish editorial and conceptual bridges between fine perfume, food, space & visual culture - at a time when critics were positioning fragrance as a purist art object - include indie brands, underline the team-aspect of perfume authorship, as well as offer broad sociological context in a fragrance industry biased towards aspirational luxury and sensuality... I'm a PhD in Anthropology, a former Lavoisier Scholar at Oxford University, who's worked on foodways, identity & death as well as an English literature major now turned perfume blogger & chronicler out of conviction, passion & intellectual curiosity. That's the short of it.

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New Fragrance Reviews - Shopping Ideas

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

L'Occitane Cerisier Rouge Eau Intense

Jo Malone Rain Collection

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

L'Occitane Cèdre et Oranger

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

The Body Shop White Musk Smoky Rose

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

L'Occitane La Collection de Grasse

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Perfume Contract for Lady Gaga will not be Fulfilled by Givaudan - Le Contrat Parfum de Lady Gaga est Passé sous le Nez de Givaudan {Fragrance News}

lady_gaga.jpgBloomberg Business Week let us guess that behind the scenes there was intense competition to obtain Lady Gaga's juicy contract for her upcoming perfume this year. Fragrance supplier Givaudan, which ranks as the top company in its field was not retained after all. The scent is developed and marketed by Coty but down the chain they need to work with providers of raw materials as well as perfumers' expertise, resources which are supplied by such organizations. Interestingly, it is Givaudan which was behind a somewhat provocative perfume called Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange which features the kind of notes that Lady Gaga is keen on making her signature ones, such as blood and semen, we were told from early on....


It felt a bit déjà-vu, but on the other hand it might ensure the fact that this family of notes will pass further into the mainstream.

It seems that it is rather a challenge to enduringly maintain taboos in perfumery.

Bloomberg Business Week laisse entendre que la lutte pour obtenir le contrat sans doute on ne peut plus juteux pour développer le parfum de Lady Gaga cette année-ci a été acharnée. En effet la compagnie suisse Givaudan, la première dans le monde dans son domaine qui couvre la fourniture d'ingrédients nécessaires à la fabrication de parfums et de saveurs ainsi que l'expertise de parfumeurs professionnels a été mise hors course. C'est Coty qui s'occupe du développement et de la commercialisation du parfum de Lady Gaga en s'appuyant sur de telles organisations.

Le fait à noter dans ce cas-ci peut-être est que Givaudan est justement derrière un parfum quelque peu provocateur appelé Sécrétions Magnifiques de Etat Libre d'Orange comportant précisément le type de notes que Lady Gaga a envie de voir figurer dans sa fragrance, comme des notes de sang et de sperme, ainsi qu'elle l'avait fait savoir très tôt.

On avait l'impression d'avoir déjà expérimenté ce type de notes expérimentales mais ce projet pourrait avoir le mérite non pas tant d'être révolutionnaire que de faire qu'un plus large public s'habitue à cette famille de notes.

Il semblerait qu'il soit rien moins qu'évident que de faire durer les tabous en parfumerie.


Via Business Week


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Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Diptyque Eau de Lavande (2014) {New Perfume} : It does sound like it was thoughtfully crafted...

Dusan on Diptyque Eau de Lavande (2014) {New Perfume} : My interest is sparked! ;-)

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Byredo Bal d'Afrique (2009): Cake-Walking at the Bal d'Afrique {Perfume Review & Musings} : Thanks!

Haardt Moses on Byredo Bal d'Afrique (2009): Cake-Walking at the Bal d'Afrique {Perfume Review & Musings} : great article!

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Tom Ford Velvet Orchid - Nearly All the Facts (2014) {New Perfume} : Yes, you'll be able to find it in April in France

nealcohen on 70s Cult Favorite Aqua Manda Perfume to Make a Comeback! {Fragrance News} : Well I would say the 5000 bottles sold , 40 stockists, 400 ...

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Rose on Bond No.9 Hudson Yards (2014): The Anticipatory Scent of a Redevelopment Project {New Perfume} : I love that they're doing something new for something new in NYC. ...

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