Monthly Archives from March 2006

THE BUZZ

ABOUT: I'm a PhD in anthropology who's worked on foodways, death & identity as well as an English literature major turned perfume blogger, writer, poet & chronicler out of conviction, passion & intellectual curiosity. That's the short of it.

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Perfume & Culture news & reviews blog; inspired Fashion curator Harold Koda into creating an online venue for the MET; Serge Lutens called it a rare independent blog.

The Scented Salamander

Contemplating intersections of the visual & olfactory cultures.

New Fragrance Reviews

Dior Addict Eau Délice

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Rochas Songe d'Iris

Carven, Le Parfum

The Jasmine Green Tea Trend in Perfumes for Spring-Summer 2013

Sexy & Maternal Perfumes for Mother's Day 2013

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Penhaligon's Ellenisia 

ID Parfums Elixir de Muguet

Mariah Carey Lollipop Bling Honey

Lettre Ouverte à l'Osmothèque sur votre Conférence sur les Blogs Parfums par une Blogueuse Honteuse

Chloé Eau de Fleur Néroli

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Van Cleef & Arpels Féérie Spring Blossom

Marni Eau de Parfum

Mojo Magique

Prada No.14 Rossetto

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Escada Cherry in the Air

Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin 

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

Lancôme L'Autre Ôud

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

A Christmas Tree, Mitsouko, Gourmandises & the Memories of Constantin Weriguine: Joy to the World 

Hermès L'Ambre des Merveilles

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Gemey H pour Homme Titanium

Robert Piguet Blossom

Robert Piguet Oud

Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay

Esteban Belle au Parfum de Oud

Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire

Lady Gaga Fame

Chanel Coco Noir: Post-Scriptum

Chanel Coco Noir

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Prada Luna Rossa

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Madonna Truth or Dare

Fragrance Essays 

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

Cool Powdery Perfumes for Summer 2012 are Descendants of L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

Bourbon French Parfums Jasmine



Perfume Contract for Lady Gaga will not be Fulfilled by Givaudan - Le Contrat Parfum de Lady Gaga est Passé sous le Nez de Givaudan {Fragrance News}

lady_gaga.jpgBloomberg Business Week let us guess that behind the scenes there was intense competition to obtain Lady Gaga's juicy contract for her upcoming perfume this year. Fragrance supplier Givaudan, which ranks as the top company in its field was not retained after all. The scent is developed and marketed by Coty but down the chain they need to work with providers of raw materials as well as perfumers' expertise, resources which are supplied by such organizations. Interestingly, it is Givaudan which was behind a somewhat provocative perfume called Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange which features the kind of notes that Lady Gaga is keen on making her signature ones, such as blood and semen, we were told from early on....

 

It felt a bit déjà-vu, but on the other hand it might ensure the fact that this family of notes will pass further into the mainstream.

It seems that it is rather a challenge to enduringly maintain taboos in perfumery.

Bloomberg Business Week laisse entendre que la lutte pour obtenir le contrat sans doute on ne peut plus juteux pour développer le parfum de Lady Gaga cette année-ci a été acharnée. En effet la compagnie suisse Givaudan, la première dans le monde dans son domaine qui couvre la fourniture d'ingrédients nécessaires à la fabrication de parfums et de saveurs ainsi que l'expertise de parfumeurs professionnels a été mise hors course. C'est Coty qui s'occupe du développement et de la commercialisation du parfum de Lady Gaga en s'appuyant sur de telles organisations.

Le fait à noter dans ce cas-ci peut-être est que Givaudan est justement derrière un parfum quelque peu provocateur appelé Sécrétions Magnifiques de Etat Libre d'Orange comportant précisément le type de notes que Lady Gaga a envie de voir figurer dans sa fragrance, comme des notes de sang et de sperme, ainsi qu'elle l'avait fait savoir très tôt.

On avait l'impression d'avoir déjà expérimenté ce type de notes expérimentales mais ce projet pourrait avoir le mérite non pas tant d'être révolutionnaire que de faire qu'un plus large public s'habitue à cette famille de notes.

Il semblerait qu'il soit rien moins qu'évident que de faire durer les tabous en parfumerie.

 

Via Business Week

Image: ladygaga.com

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