Jovoy Rouge Assassin (2012): Cocottes, Garçonnes & 1920s Paris, All Smelled of Lipstick {New Perfume}



Parisian niche perfume house Jovoy are releasing new perfumes this fall of 2012; among them is Rouge Assassin (Killer Red Lipstick). The fragrance, composed by perfumer Amélie Bourgeois of Flair, aims to recreate scents of made-up femininity and Parisian nocturnal world, all bottled in one flacon, including the buttery scent of red lipstick and a whiff of rice powder on skin.

Two archetypal women of the period inspired the composition: the short-haired, leggy, emancipated garçonne of course, but also the cocotte, with her more turn-of-the-century connotation of a much less emancipated sort with a generous clivage peeking through frills and flounces, "the mistress of these gentlemen"....

These two types rarely mingled, co-existing rather in different circuits of pleasure (cigarette, alcohol, outdoors vs. perfume, aphrodisiacs and closed quarters, we can well imagine). Both types however used makeup. For Jovoy, it's also an opportunity to pay homage to their earliest customers, the cocottes of the Second Empire. 

 Brand founder François Hénin said,
"I offer you a heady sillage of lipstick, skin, flowers, which will excite men and make women feel hot and bothered, but will always act in the best of your interest."
The eau de parfum opens on top notes of bergamot, Italian cedrat and elemi before seguing into a heart of fresh rose, Egyptian geranium, and tender jasmine. The base notes are iris (wafts of lipstick), rice bran, ambrette seed, Virginian cedar (smell of the music-hall stage), white musk, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin (the atmosphere of the backstage of a Parisian cabaret). 
Via press release

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