Mugler Les Exceptions (2014) {New Fragrances}


Thierry Mugler Takes on a New Persona with Mugler, the Luxury Facet of the House


One of the most ambitious launches of 2014, you can suspect already, will be the new collection by Thierry Mugler now aka Mugler entitled Les Exceptions. Mugler are perhaps best-known for their high level of creativity although of course they remain a qualitative perfume house, it goes without saying. This time, they are blending this quirky personality trait with a more obvious quest for luxury and classicism...

The house is even turning its attention towards redefining traditional perfume families or genres: the musk, the floral, the fougère, the oriental, and the chypre with, in the order of presentation favored by the brand: Chyprissime, Supra Floral, Fougère Furieuse, Over the Musk and Oriental Express. The scents are said to be,

"Fragrances based on floral, chypre, musk, oriental and «fougère» accents... MUGLER’s Exceptions reinterpret and magnify the great blends of traditional fine perfumery, transporting them into the future with overdosed ingredients, original notes... and always the noblest materials."

Another way Mugler like to define the new eaux de parfum is that they see them as "...rare perfumes that rekindle intense emotions."

The library has been composed by perfumers Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hérault. The latter expresses well how a (new) tradition is a mark of revolutionary creativity admitting that, « I dream of creating a perfume that gives birth to a new olfactory family… » 

The latest family to have been born historically as a coded modern genre based on an ancient recipe is the chypre one, an example which remains a vivid reminder for perfumers of how you can hope to push back familiar limits in their field. 

Chyprissime is signed by Olivier Polge who explained that, «I updated the structure of chypre by sharpening the edges more pre- cisely and made it more colorful by designing a new shade inspired by this palette to give it a new brightness. Pear takes away the vintage sheen from this great monument of classical perfumery. A stylishly original, sophisticated perfume

Supra Floral by the same nose is a hyacinth soliflore, reinvented. 

Fougère Furieuse is signed by Jean-Christophe Hérault, who explains, «Playing on the codes of the genre, borrowing some elements from the male wardrobe then changing them, daring to be outrageous, these precepts have been applied to the fragrance. Feminine floral facets of the fougère structure have been intensified and the contrasts amplified. The approach is resolutely Muglerian

Over the Musk by Jean-Christophe Hérault explores the animalic spirit of the original raw material musk, only displaced and transfigured thanks to its plant double, ambrette seed. 

Oriental Express by Olivier Polge sounds particularly original in its conception. The perfumer went for a new take on this metaphoric genre, the "fur perfume" from a the time when many more women, and men, wore real fur. Then, he plays with our expectations with a green and creamy, suprising personality helped in his artful display of novel nuances by a hint of carrot. 

Luxury is also very much about service, so there again, Mugler have rethought their approach offering a consultation framework to the experience of buying perfume with educational smelling sessions of materials held by a brand "ambassador". The fragrance of choice will be finally poured into a refillable 80 ml flacon. 

Via press release

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