Italian luxury tailoring brand Brioni are launching a new fragrance for men called Brioni eau de toilette more than half a century after their Lucky Cologne (1959) and 5 years after their reinterpretation of that debut perfume on the 65th anniversary of the house...
While the label is keen on offering a new perfume which represents their universe to their clientèle, they are in no way interested in appealing to a wider customer base. The new scent composed by perfumer Raymond Matts, aims to touch the Brioni customer who sets foot in their boutiques and whose sense of "integrity" on quality matches theirs.
By doing so, the house hints back to a hospitality tradition for fragrance-making in the world of fashion which saw fashion designers offer limited-editions to their most faithful patrons rather than think out a comprehensive marketing plan. Except that this new scent won't be a gift but a perfume sold for $280.
It is a compromise between what would have been an haute-couture gesture and a niche perfumery strategy, possibly resulting in a more rarefied boutique experience for purchasing perfume today. At least, it sounds like an attempt to do so. Brand expansion thanks to fragrance as is often the case in fashion is not a primary concern, apparently.
Brioni CEO Francesco Pesci told WWD that,
People told me at least 15 times that it would be better to work with a licensing partner, but I resisted," said Pesci, noting that Brioni's eyewear line is also an in-house project. "We needed to put our consumer at the center, and our consumer is not influenced by passing trends. He's more interested in product integrity.
The eau de toilette by Brioni opens on top notes of cold-pressed Sicilian lemon seguing into a floral heart of magnolia, iris and violet while the base is a multi-faceted woody accord resting on saffron, cistus leaves, oud and black licorice.
The flacon evokes the supple movement of fabric and was designed by Patrik Fredrikson and Ian Stallard who've previously collaborated with the brand for a line of Brioni cuff links, tie clips and collar pins.