Reminiscence Patchouli N' Roses Eau de Parfum
French costume jewelry and perfume brand Reminiscence released a new fragrance called Patchouli N' Roses, a composition taking a new look at the now classic accord of earthy patchouli and floral roses...
The house is one of those scent labels that focus on a star and defining perfumery material, in this case patchouli. Their original fragrance Patchouli was born in 1970 at the height of the Beatnik era of patchouli love. Since then, variations on a main theme have been marketed to keep that sensual, historic, free-love sillage alive.
The floriental chypre composition is signed by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin of Firmenich. His idea appears to be to add a stone to the contemporary rewriting of the chypre code to make the perfume feel modern while insisting on bringing out the natural beauty of the ingredients.
The selection process was rigorous enough to be considered a critical stage in the creative process. In fact, it becomes part and parcel of the creative process when significant emphasis is put on it.
The edp opens on an « explosive » top note of rose oxyde leading to a honeyed heart of Rosa Damascena while the base rests on musk blended with a grade of patchouli called patchouli cœur, i.e., one which does away with the overly dirt-accented patchouli leaves to make the note smell more sophisticated and clean.
Patchouli is the new oakmoss for chypre fragrances. It seems that the project was more about thinking about a contemporary chypre base but it could be interesting if the perfumer has insisted on remaining loyal to the patchouli signature of the brand, which is quite strong and characteristic. As always in perfumery, it is all about a matter of dosage and balance and nuance.
Available now in Europe in 100 ml edp for 93€.