The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: January 2007

January 2007 Archive

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January 18, 2007

A.Maze by The People Of The Labyrinths {New Perfume}

The People Of The Labyrinths, the hip fashion brand from the Netherlands that created the cult perfume Luctor et Emergo will introduce a new perfume called A.Maze on the 20th of January 2007. It reportedly took them 5 years to create it (beating the already demanding 3 year time period it took to create Luctor & Emergo).....

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Rousse by Serge Lutens {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

Rousse (russet, ginger, red-headed) is the silken and frothy-sounding name in French given to the upcoming spring 2007 perfume launch by designer Serge Lutens. It will be available from February in the export line. Like the rest of the collection, it is the result of an on-going collaboration between Serge Lutens and nose Christopher Sheldrake.

It is said to be inspired by the finale of French pop singer Mylène Farmer's show "Avant que l'ombre" and the russet-colored couture dress she wore on that occasion made for her by Franck Sorbier.

Rousse contains notes of mandarine, cinnamon, carnation, cedar, sandalwood, violet, vanilline, amber, balsamic notes and more since it develops a Tiger Balm accord (like the recent Heeley Spirit of the Tiger)....

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January 19, 2007

Vierges et Toreros & Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow by Etat Libre d'Orange {New Perfumes}

Etat Libre d'Orange has issued two new perfumes, Vierges et Toreros (I keep writing "verges"; francophones will understand why the substitution is not irrelevant. It makes me associate with Les onze mille verges by Guillaume Apollinaire) created by Antoine Lie and Antoinne Maisondieu and Don't get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow (is this the first perfume......with a line as a name? We're all waiting for the flanker with the guy's response on it) created by Antoine Maisondieu......

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A Washington Post Article About M.A. Sillage de la Reine {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}

The Washington Post has published an article about the details of the creation or rather re-creation of M.A. Sillage de la Reine (please see my review of the fragrance), the perfume of Marie Antoinette, by Francis Kukrdjian, an enterprise conducted together with historian Elisabeth de Feydeau:

"When Francis Kurkdjian, one of France's premier perfumers, set out to re-create a fragrance of Marie Antoinette, his greatest fear was that it would stink.

After all, he reasoned, the 21st-century nose might have little tolerance for the potent potions that the famous queen and her royal court used to mask the smells of their opulent but odiferous 18th-century environs at the Chateau de Versailles.....

I just wanted to point out that although the article lays stress on the idea that Marie Antoinette wore heavy perfumes, she is also often credited for introducing a fashion for light or perhaps, if we were to be cautious, lighter floral perfumes given the cultural context of that time. Also, Marie Antoinette did not introduce bathrooms at Versailles. Louis XIV had already one built in 1665 although he preferred to use cologne rather than water to clean himself.

Traces of Marie Antoinette, Caught in a Phial of Perfume

Photo: Jean-Marc Manai

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January 20, 2007

Xpose by Christina Aguilera {Perfume History & Facts} {Celebrity perfumes}

After announcing that Christina Aguilera was preparing to launch her signature fragrance, I realized that she had already participated in a fragrance creation previously. Her perfume, Xpose, was launched in 2004 and exclusively distributed in the European market.

Interestingly enough, this fact was not mentioned in the recent press releases.

Have you tried it?

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Scentys by Presensia, Communicating on Fragrance with Fragrance {The 5th Sense in The News}

French Company Presensia is marketing a high-definition digital plasma TV system which stimulates three of our senses: vision, sound, and smell. It can diffuse up to 16 pre-composed fragrances each time when using a video. For more information, you can visit Presensia

Source: La Télé se met aux parfums, L'Expansion

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January 21, 2007

Greeting Card Perfumed With M.A. Sillage de la Reine {Scented Image} {Perfume History & Facts}

I just wanted to share with you the image of the greeting card that was sent to the employees of the Château de Versailles to express good wishes for 2007. It was perfumed by Quest International with M.A. Sillage de la Reine. It is a very large card folded in the middle. The base notes like sandalwood and musk were not surprisingly, particularly apparent.

Photo of the original ©The Scented Salamander

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Challenges for The Fragrance Industry, A Portrait of Carolina Herrera Jr. {The 5th Sense in the News}

For your reading pleasure:

A Fragrance is a Fleeting Thing, Boston Globe - The state of the fragrance market; things could be healthier.

Sweet Carolina, Telegraph - Carolina Herrera Jr. works as a fragrance advisor to her mother designer Carolina Herrera, a personal portrait.

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A Comment by Will Andrews On TSS About Rock 'N Rose By Valentino, Some Thoughts on Authorship in Perfumery {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}

We got an interesting comment by perfumer William Andrews regarding Rock 'N Rose by Valentino. He turns out to be one of the creators of the fragrance and not its sole conceiver. In this case also we had initially quoted our information from Cosmetic News. Here is the correction that he added:

Continue reading "A Comment by Will Andrews On TSS About Rock 'N Rose By Valentino, Some Thoughts on Authorship in Perfumery {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}" »

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Round-Up of Comments: Mitsouko's Formula, Address of Parfums de Rosine in Paris {The Readers Talk Back}

We thought that it would be worthwhile to call your attention to comments that were posted on TSS this week which are of general interest to readers:

Jean-Noël commented on Te Deum for Mitsouko:

"Mitsouko has a very short formula (10 lines). My guess is that they have changed real "amber tincture" for a synthetic substitute. Another change coud be in a substitute in the C14 or C18 aldehyde for an IFRA compliant product."....

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January 22, 2007

Manakara, Isvaraya, & Tihota by Indult {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}

Indult is a new high-end French perfume label that made its debut in January of 2007 and is currently exclusively sold at Sephora France. The name of the brand comes from Christian Latin "Indultum" meaning "concession, favor". Their name embodies their marketing approach which is typically one that is characterized by a new-luxury philosophy. As we already noted on TSS, "...Indeed to buy one of the Indult perfumes amounts to being a king or a prince granted a privilege from the Pope or feels like paying the King of Spain's tax on precious metals and products originating from America as the historical references go. Only 999 copies of each will be marketed...."

Buying an Indult perfume in fact equates to buying a membership into a select club of perfume aficionados as only those who have purchased one of the fewer than 3000 flacons will be able to re-purchase in the future.

The three perfumes were composed by nose Francis Kurkdjian. Each one of the scents is said to be dedicated to the interpretation of an important note in perfumery: rose for Manakara, Patchouli for Isvaraya, and vanilla for Tihota.

The perfumes convey a sense of luxurious exoticism coupled with urban elegance and even edginess, the latter trait not being too overtly expressed. The complexity is more structural than narrative, that is, the perfumes do not offer very complex developments but the satisfactory olfactory experience one derives from them rests upon an inner, understated complexity. The fragrances are high quality and elaborate. There seems to be a common thread running through them pointing to an interest for a sugar theme. Rather than feel infantile, it evokes the passionate quest for the raw material and the connoisseur's appreciation for its many nuances. It explodes nowhere better than in Tihota....

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January 23, 2007

Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums {Perfume Review & Musings}

Noir Patchouli (Patchouli Black) by niche perfume house Histoires de Parfums is a wonderful dark and dry rose-patchouli perfume. It is part of the collection Couleurs de Parfum (Colors of Perfumes) which also comprises Blanc Violette (Violet White) and Vert Pivoine (Peony Green).

Noir Patchouli is one of those perfumes that make one irresistibly think of the sound of the crack of a whip as expressive of a perfume's and woman's sexiness. The end suggests that she gives in to her more romantic side.

I must say that this perfume makes my heart beat the chamade (i.e., more quickly) as I come under its charm.

The scent at first is full of nervous energy without being shallow as its impressions are deepened by rich spices. If you enjoy Estée Lauder Youth-Dew, I recommend that you try Noir Patchouli....

Continue reading "Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

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A Petition Submitted Against Clarins To Have Angel Perfume Be Declared Misbranded {The 5th Sense in the News}

"The National Toxic Encephalopathy Foundation (NTEF) has submitted their petition to the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) to have Angel Perfume by Thierry Mugler distributed by Clarins Paris declared misbranded...."

Read more about the issue. NTEF proposes several research documents about Angel on their site.

Source: NewsReleaseWire.com

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January 24, 2007

Etat Libre d'Orange Now at Henri Bendel {Shopping Tip} {Fragrance News}

According to Osmoz.fr, Etat Libre d'Orange is now available at Henri Bendel as of January 24th 2007.

Source: Osmoz.fr

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L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur {New Perfume}

L'Artisan Parfumeur is issuing a new fresh eau de toilette in May 2007 called L'Eau de Jatamansi. It is part of their new body and bath line Jatamansi which is said to be ecologically certified. Jatamansi is also known as "spikenard" in English and "nard" in French. The new eau de toilette includes Jatamansi, blue chamomilla, gaïac wood, and rose.

Source: Osmoz.fr

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January 2007 Archive

Page 2 of 5 • 1 2 3 4 5

Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

Latest Posts from Beauty And The Salamander

January 18, 2007

A.Maze by The People Of The Labyrinths {New Perfume}

Rousse by Serge Lutens {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

January 19, 2007

Vierges et Toreros & Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow by Etat Libre d'Orange {New Perfumes}

A Washington Post Article About M.A. Sillage de la Reine {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}

January 20, 2007

Xpose by Christina Aguilera {Perfume History & Facts} {Celebrity perfumes}

Scentys by Presensia, Communicating on Fragrance with Fragrance {The 5th Sense in The News}

January 21, 2007

Greeting Card Perfumed With M.A. Sillage de la Reine {Scented Image} {Perfume History & Facts}

Challenges for The Fragrance Industry, A Portrait of Carolina Herrera Jr. {The 5th Sense in the News}

A Comment by Will Andrews On TSS About Rock 'N Rose By Valentino, Some Thoughts on Authorship in Perfumery {Perfume History & Facts} {Scented Thoughts}

Round-Up of Comments: Mitsouko's Formula, Address of Parfums de Rosine in Paris {The Readers Talk Back}

January 22, 2007

Manakara, Isvaraya, & Tihota by Indult {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}

January 23, 2007

Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums {Perfume Review & Musings}

A Petition Submitted Against Clarins To Have Angel Perfume Be Declared Misbranded {The 5th Sense in the News}

January 24, 2007

Etat Libre d'Orange Now at Henri Bendel {Shopping Tip} {Fragrance News}

L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur {New Perfume}

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