Monthly Archives from March 2006

April 2007 Archive

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April 1, 2007



Touch of Spring & Hot Play by Lacoste {New Perfumes}

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Lacoste has issued a duo of fragrances for her and for him. Touch of Spring and Hot Play both belong to the sport fashion label's Energy range. The springy green and warm orange colors are derived from the 2007 spring-summer collection of the luxury brand....

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Delicious Closet Queen by Etat Libre D'Orange {New Perfume}

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The prolific young Parisian perfume house, Etat Libre D'Orange, has released a new fragrance provocatively titled, as always, Delicious Closet Queen. The perfume was created by Nathalie Feisthauer.

"Elegance is an armor. In order to guess who that man is one would have to [...] make his mask of a modern prince fall. [...]....

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April 2, 2007

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Niche Perfumery Directory}

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Artisan perfumer Laurie Stern now has a retail website for her brand of natural botanical perfumes, Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery:

"Hearkening back to ancient apothecary and romantic aesthetics, all of Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery's natural, botanical perfumes unleash a multi- sensory experience for the wearer. Delicate scents are hand blended in small caches using the most precious floral essences and extraordinary oils, such as narcissus flower and violet leaf....

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An Interview With Christopher Chong, Creative Director of Amouage {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}

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We are delighted to welcome Christopher Chong, the Creative Director of the Omani perfume house Amouage. This luxurious perfumery brand has succeeded since 1983 in projecting both an image of classic Arabian opulence mixed with the Western tradition as well as in becoming popular in the circuits of niche perfumery where demanding amateurs abound. It is an excellent example of how the guiding principles of luxury and creativity of the prestige and niche markets can coalesce.

Amouage has just released their latest creations, Reflection Women and Men. We felt it would be a great time to learn more about the work of the perfume house and in particular that of its Creative Director, Christopher Chong.

TSS: First, may I ask you how you became involved with fragrances? Or again, where does this love of fragrances of yours spring from? 

Christopher Chong:

Let me tell you about my funny childhood.  My first encounter with perfumes started when I was four.  I took one of my mother's perfumes and intoxicated the house with the entire bottle.  Everyone was fighting for air.  Whereas I was transfixed by the notes dancing around me.  It was a magical moment that I hope I will experience again.

Ever since that time, other children wanted to go to the playground, I begged my mother to take me to the perfume hallls in department stores.  That was my wonderland filled with magic and spellbinding excitement.

I further developed this love for perfumes by studying humanities at university which gave me an in-depth knowledge of art, music and literature. Also, as a trained opera singer, perfume is the perfect complement.  I used to sing the notes. Now, I smell the notes.

TSS: 

-When one talks about the creation of perfumes today, a lot of focus is put on perfumers. A debate has arisen recently around the question of authorship in perfumery with, as you know, different conclusions in Holland and France.  Yet at the same time it is quite obvious that perfumery appears more and more to be the result of sophisticated teamwork akin to the level of collective effort found in the making of a movie, from designing the perfume, to composing it, blending it, to packaging it and marketing it etc. What is exactly the role of an artistic director in that enterprise, at least in the way that you see it?......

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Persephone by Sali Oguri {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

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Persephone is Sali Oguri's second fragrance composition following Pink Manhattan. If the latter was evocative of spring and summer, the new perfume oil with its dark-colored deeper velvety tones seems to reveal more affinities with the fall season. The myth of Persephone or Proserpine calls to mind the ever-unfolding cycle of nature and the cold season of winter in particular. Both perfume and goddess are seen as sources of warmth and are the origins of contrasted perceptions of fertility and deathly darkness (albeit preceding rebirth), an idea that is illustrated with a dark fruit theme in the fragrance.

Despite its warmer, less sunny, more hushed-down quality that evokes the comfort and pleasure of wearing cashmere on a cold foggy day, the perfume ends up imposing more its character as an intimate sexy skin scent that could be worn all year long, depending on the sensual mood of the moment rather than on the passing of the seasons.......

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April 3, 2007

Diabolo Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine {New Perfume}

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Les Parfums de Rosine, a niche perfume house exclusively dedicated to the celebration of the rich multiple facets of the rose flower, has released their latest creation, Diabolo Rose. It was composed by nose François Robert based on an idea by Marie-Hélène Rogeon, the founder and owner of the brand.....

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Article by Luca Turin On A New Formulation Of Guerlain Mitsouko by Edouard Fléchier {Fragrance News}

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We had said several times on TSS that Mitsouko by Guerlain had come to smell simply appalling compared to the original version (especially, but not only, in the edt version).

 

Luca Turin has announced in his regular column in NZZ Folio that Guerlain had been going back to the drawing board and that Mitsouko has now been reformulated by perfumer Edouard Fléchier (Davidoff, Poison, Acqua Di Gio, Une Rose....). He says that he personally might even prefer the new version to the classic one......

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April 4, 2007

Norma Kamali Opens A Wellness Café Centering On Olive Oil {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Fragrant Recipes}

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Norma Kamali was brought up enjoying olive oil on a daily basis thanks to her Lebanese mother and Spanish father, but two years ago, her passion blossomed and she started developing an expertise in olive oil. She has now opened a café in New York city which offers a series of specialties based on olive oil and floral Mediterranean flavors. Here is what is on the menu:

"...olive oil ice cream, and a light olive oil and lavender short bread — garnished with lavender leaves. The Bryant Park Grill is supplying an aromatic rose meringue parfait, olive oil cupcakes with a hint of spice and lavender marshmallows that are as light as air....

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Limited Editions Summer Fun Pleasures, Beyond Paradise, & Beautiful {New Perfumes}

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Seasonal offerings of perfumes abound at this time of the year; Estée Lauder is releasing three limited editions of Pleasures, Beyond Paradise, and Beautiful in the Summer Fun series this year. They are described as lighter versions of the originals.

Last year, they created Pleasures Summer Bouquet

The new fragrances do not appear to be listed on the Estée Lauder site yet. 

Source: The Moodie Report.

Amor Amor Sunshine & Amor Amor Pour Homme Sunshine {New Fragrances}

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Cacharel is launching a seasonal duo of perfumes called Amor Amor Sunshine and Amor Amor Pour Homme Sunshine.....

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April 5, 2007

L'Osmothèque: A Cycle of Conferences on Perfume Ingredients {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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L'Osmothèque, a unique perfume conservatory located in Versailles, France, is organizing a cycle of conferences dedicated to the lay person's better understanding of the essential components of a perfume. Here is the full calendar for those of you who will be in Paris at those dates:

[Le 7 MARS 2007 à 18 H exceptionnellement un MERCREDI :
« LES PRODUITS NATURELS » par Mme Monique RÉMY.
« LES PRODUITS ANIMAUX » par M. Christian RÉMY.
Fondateurs des « Laboratoires de matières premières Naturelles Monique RÉMY ».]

Le MARDI 24 AVRIL 2007 à 18 H :
« LES PRODUITS DE SYNTHESE » par M. Jacques VAILLANT.
Directeur Technique Société « QUEST International »......

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Muguet by Guerlain, 2007 Edition {Fragrance News}

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Each year since 1998, Guerlain releases a new edition of Muguet to celebrate the First of May. In France, people traditionally exchange lilies of the valley on that day when one can suddenly see buckets full of the delicate white bells patterning a city's streets.....


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Jungle D'Eden & Les Paradis Artificiels Exhibitions at the Galeries Lafayette {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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Galeries Lafayettes in Paris is organizing two exhibitions inspired by the vegetal world called Jungle D'Eden (Jungle of Eden) and Les Paradis Artificiels (Artificial Paradises). Attractions in the first exhibition include a flower bar where one will be able to taste edible flowers and cocktails mixing flowers and fruits.....

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Boudoir Sin Garden by Vivienne Westwood: Update {New Perfume}

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We received the information that Boudoir Sin Garden is not a seasonal limited edition but a permanent addition to the Vivienne Westwood line of fragrances. It was composed by "Marie Salamagne, Firmenich in very close collaboration with Vivienne Westwood herself." Here's an exerpt from the press release:....

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Scented Quote of the Day, from Olivier Cresp:

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"20 or 30 years ago perfumers were unknown and journalists would not come to interview them. Today in our industry people know what we create and our names are in magazines, we can be part of TV programs, etc. We are recognized in the same way that great chefs are. Having said that, one never does anything by oneself, it is a team that creates: the perfumer, evaluators, sellers, the client. Take the case of Schumacher who wins a grand prize; behind, there are engineers, a brand, sponsors. If today he were to race under an unknown brand, he would still be a great pilot but he would win much fewer races.

Question from editor Marianne Lecoq:

So we are not going to see the perfumer's name on a flacon any time soon and be able to follow him, olfactorily speaking?.....

Continue reading "Scented Quote of the Day, from Olivier Cresp:" »

April 2007 Archive

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