Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Blu by Bruno Acampora {Perfume Short (Review)}

 

Acampora_Phial_Blue.jpg

 

Blu by Bruno Acampora starts with a visual impression that of a dark blue turquoise tinted ink of a perfume. Your finger traces a primitive character on the wrist as if you did not know how to write your name and simply knew how to trace a cross. Like an illiterate peasant then and following Acampora's instructions you concentrate on the wrists (and neck in principle) only, you trace a blue cross that slowly disappears into the skin only adding a vaguely blue glow to the skin, making your blue veins bluer. You could also decide to write a Chinese character each time that you apply the scent.......

The blue color creates an impression of rarity or unnaturalness that creates in its turn an element of fascination. One thinks of the Blue Dahlia, the Black Tulip, and now the Blue Tuberose.

The scent then is violent, excessive at first. It smells like the screeching noise made by rubber tires on the asphalt at night when a police car is chasing a criminal. The tuberose together with the equally carnal ylang-ylang are so intense it feels like the perfume is made of super-concentrated rubber, borders on the toxic, but then when one is ready to done on some rubber gloves and a mask, goes back to being a more humane flower with a heavy enveloping presence. The natural and cultivated excess of tuberose is, like an afterthought, gently tamed by a note of orange that adds a nuance of lightness, sparkle, innocence, and softness to it. Orange or orange blossom marry well with tuberose and are often associated with it to make it more palatable to the nose as in Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens and Fracas by Piguet.

As the perfume mellows down it becomes more round and incense-y with the sandalwood adding some refined texturing to the scent. It evokes Monyette Paris at this stage but with subtle aquatic overtones and tuberose instead of gardenia. The blue color in fact after which the perfume is named is supposed to mimic the deep blue sea at Capri.

The base smells of ambergris and of a woody earthy musk with a little gourmand touch derived from the orange and the creamy floral notes. The deeper bottom note is redolent of sandalwood. The tuberose stays practically throughout the development of the scent except at long last when it gives way to the solitary piquancy of sandalwood.

Blu is fairly linear but rich, gorged with indoles and the warmth of the sand and the human skin. With time, the blue tint disappears into the skin like magic ink, only leaving the scent. It is a sophisticated, simple, intense tuberose perfume, which mellows down to a more subdued warm skin scent.

Top note is tuberose. Heart notes are orange, sandalwood. Base note is ylang-ylang. The perfume oil was created in 1974.

A 10 ml aluminium phial retails for $175. You can sample the scent for $8 at Luckyscent

 

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