Blu by Bruno Acampora {Perfume Short (Review)}


Blu by Bruno Acampora starts with a visual impression that of a dark blue turquoise tinted ink of a perfume. Your finger traces a primitive character on the wrist as if you did not know how to write your name and simply knew how to trace a cross.

Like an illiterate peasant then and following Acampora's instructions you concentrate on the wrists (and neck in principle) only. You trace a blue cross that slowly disappears into the skin only adding a vaguely blue glow to the skin, making your blue veins bluer. You could also decide to write a Chinese character each time that you apply the scent.......

The blue color creates an impression of rarity or unnaturalness that creates in its turn an element of fascination. One thinks of the Blue Dahlia, the Black Tulip, and now the Blue Tuberose.

The scent then is violent, excessive at first. It smells like the screeching noise made by rubber tires on the asphalt at night as a police car is chasing a racing criminal. The tuberose together with the equally carnal ylang-ylang are so intense it feels like the perfume is made of super-concentrated rubber, bordering on the toxic. But then when one is ready to don on some rubber gloves and a mask, goes back to being a more humane flower with a heavy enveloping presence.

The natural and cultivated excess of tuberose is, like an afterthought, gently tamed by a note of orange that adds a nuance of lightness, sparkle, innocence and softness to it. Orange and orange blossom marry well with tuberose and are often associated with it to make it more palatable to the nose as in Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens and Fracas by Piguet.

As the perfume mellows down it becomes rounder and more incense-y with the sandalwood adding some refined texturing to the scent. It evokes the gardenia in Monyette Paris at this stage but with subtle aquatic overtones and tuberose instead of gardenia. The blue color after which the perfume is named is supposed to mimic the deep blue sea at Capri.

The base smells of ambergris and of a woody earthy musk with a little gourmand touch derived from the orange and creamy floral notes. The deeper base is redolent of sandalwood. The tuberose stays practically throughout the development of the scent except at long last when it gives way to the unique piquancy of sandalwood.

Blu is fairly linear but rich, gorged with indoles and the warmth of the sand and human skin.

Overtime, the blue tincture disappears into the skin like magic ink, only leaving the scent once it's gone.

Blu is a sophisticated, simple and intense tuberose perfume, which mellows down to a more subdued warm skin scent.

Top note is tuberose. Heart notes are orange, sandalwood. Base note is ylang-ylang. The perfume oil was created in 1974.

A 10 ml aluminium phial retails for $175. You can sample the scent for $8 at Luckyscent.

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