Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Report on Prince's New Perfume 3121, Le Labo Scent Le Méridien, When It Is A Good Time to Perfume Ourselves And When It Is Not, Summer Perfumes, An Interview with Frederic Malle & Pierre Bourdon {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Nick Coleman reports on Prince's new scent 3121 and loves to use overused stereotypes when describing the fragrance. 3121 might smell like one's Grandma or French bordellos, you choose. I think that if he tried harder he could come up with "smells like Grandpa" and "smells like Nevada bordellos" and his readers would find that even more amusing and coherent....but maybe I am just being too optimistic.

Indeed, it seems that It's Not Easy To Make Sense of Prince's New Scent .....

Le Labo has been called upon to scent the chain of Le Méridien hotels. "Le Labo, the innovative perfume house, has created a signature scent for Le Méridien. The different fragrance notes of frankincense, musk, iris and earthy notes vibrate from the central theme of cedar wood, creating a round, distinctive and enveloping scent."

Le Meridien Appoints Innovators In Design, Scent, Sound, and Light 

An article in French on smell scientists and different studies they have conducted. Some of their conclusions? A perfumed individual on the street is more likely to see people rush to help her/him to pick up her/his dropped handkerchief than a non-perfumed individual. On the other hand, when trying to make an impression at a job interview, it has been found out that men recruiters underestimate the candidate if that person is perfumed while women recruiters overestimate a perfumed candidate. It sounds like another case of men-are-from Mars-and-women-from-Venus.

Ces parfums qui veulent nous faire tourner la tête 

An article in French on sunmer perfumes

L'été de tous les parfums 

A very interesting article in French on Frédéric Malle, with the participation of Pierre Bourdon. Malle explains, among other things, that his perfumes that sell the least make him proud because they are very elitist, show risk-taking, and are artistic products that are ahead of trends. Pierre Bourdon reveals that Davidoff Cool Water was an underdog before becoming the epitome of mainstream.

Frédéric Malle éditeur de parfums atypique 

Comments

I like Bourdons work but I would like to hear what he thinks of Creed Green Irish Tweed (which Cool Water was so very obviously "inspired" by) and Creed Orange Spice (whos core accord of clove-spice-oranges is used in the first half of YSL Kouros).

I think that one could either view this as a complex topic or a very simple one. Perfumers seem to be pretty uninhibited regarding perfume borrowings. On the other hand, there is an aesthetic discourse about being a revolutionary in art that seem to point to some tensions about their self-images. I wonder what Creed thinks of these borrowings. I am going to give a good sniff to Cool Water now.

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Latest Comments

Ngek Ohostelenk on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : I went last year to Paraty this brings back the good memories ...

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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