Monthly Archives from March 2006



Scandal, Unspoken, Enslaved by Roja Dove {New Fragrances}

Haute Parfumerie.jpg

 

As we started making an announcement about it the other day (see Q & A), Roja Dove is preparing to launch a trilogy of haute luxury perfumes which will include three works, Scandal, Unspoken, and Enslaved. A launch by the "Professeur de Parfums" creates a sense of anticipation and raises expectations as one will want to discover how his aesthetic ideals have been translated into these creations, which are, as advertised, the result of 30 years of experience and passion.....

According to Cosmetics International,

Scandal is a floral reminiscent of the 1950s and based on a central theme of tuberose and jasmine, supported by top notes of bergamot, freesia and orange blossom, a heart of rose de Mai and jasmine and a base of orris and sandalwood.

Unspoken is a chypré that Dove says is the antithesis of today’s glut of fruity florals. Unusually for a chypré, the fragrance features notes of sandalwood, labdanum, jasmine and tuberose as well as vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss.

The third fragrance is Enslaved, a rich, soft and sensual oriental with an overdose of vanilla and tonka bean. Other notes include carnation, clove, orange blossom, bergamot and geranium.

And here is another description from Cosmetics Business,

Scandal is a floral, based on a heavy dose of white blossom that resonates with indole, an aromatic heterocyclic organic compound that occurs naturally in flowers and is redolent of a heady animal scent. The juice opens with notes of bergamot, lily of the valley and orange blossom, fading to a heart of freesia, rose, jasmine de Grasse and tuberose. Sandalwood, orris, balsams and musk are featured at the dry-down.

Unspoken sits in the chypré family thanks to its earthy base and fires up with notes of bergamot, neroli, rose and ylang-ylang, leading to jasmine de Grasse, ginger and oakmoss at its centre, with a base of sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, balsams and labdanum.

Enslaved, meanwhile, hails from the oriental camp and is kick started with bergamot, orange, lemon, geranium and orange blossom at the top, followed by rose, ylang ylang, jasmine de Grasse, carnation and clove in the middle of the triptych and drying down to oakmoss, cedarwood, vetiver patchouli, labdanum, ambergris and musk at the scent's close.

You can also read comments by perfume historian Octavian Coifan on potential trademark issues around the name "Scandal" borrowed from Lanvin, both here and on his own blog, 1000 Fragrances.

(Sources: Cosmetics International, Cosmetics Business) 

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