The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review}

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Estee Lauder have released a new bottle packaging for their classic fragrance Youth-Dew released in 1953. They re-edited the bathroom tile blue flacon of the 1950s according to the Estee Lauder website. Advertisings from that era show that actually, the small-waisted bottle was also commercialized in the late 1950s some time after the initial introduction of Youth-Dew as a bath oil and beauty product......

The blue bottle does not replace the transparent glass bottle, it is just another option for nostalgics or people who like retro packaging. We have the new blue bottle and it is a bit greener and darker than on the picture shown above. The flacon is coated with a thick rubber material; it is not blue glass.

Scent-wise, the perfume in the blue bottle seems to be a bit muskier and sharper, slightly lighter, less sweet and heavily animalic amber-y (ambergris) than with the eau de parfum we have from a few years back, but this might be due to age.

Actually we are pretty sure that the new jus has been lightened up. It also smells less "dirty"; the herbal-y facets are less pungent. The rose is less heavy too. Same for the clove note. At any rate, it smells a bit updated and younger, fresher smelling, shedding a bit of its heavy oriental personality. It makes it more easily wearable. Otherwise it retains the unmistakable spicy character of Youth-Dew.

The 1.8 oz blue bottle retails for  $25.50.

Comments

Such a shame... tampering with an original classic. Luca Turin is right about messing with original compositions--don't mess with the formulation and if you do, just give it a new name.

My impression is that perfumers have to constantly update their compositions to make it fit the raw material context. Sometimes they do that and mainly want to preserve the original formula, but there will be perceptible changes and at other times, they really want to "update" a formula. In the second case, it can indeed be frustrating to expect to smell the same thing and smell something else. And then, there is the flanker type variation on a formulation. Here everybody agrees that it should be perceived as different.

Leave formulas alone. People trust in the original. People become confused. If you want to change something, then, yes, give it a new name. Most people dont accept change very well especially when they already love something.

I just wanted to say that it is a tricky task for perfumers to maintain the fragrance formulas while having to deal with slightly different ingredients over the years yet it is a normal part of their jobs. It is unavoidable, I think, that some alterations will occur overtime. Sometime it can be for the better.

In the case of Youth-Dew I remember another episode where I was able to smell a subtle yet perceptible difference between the scent that came in a gift box and the single packaged one. I returned my purchase and since then I do not dare buy gift boxes as it made me feel they were trying to save money on the concentration. The perfume in a single bottle had a bite and character to it that had been watered down in the gift boxed one.

Youth Dew was such a unique, wonderful and memorable scent. There simply was not another like it . . sadly it is a ghost of it's former self. I thought they would never, ever change this masterpiece. Why oh why did they then?

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