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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

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Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

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6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

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Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008) {Perfume Review}


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Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (The Most Beautiful Lavenders by Caron) was announced in 2008 as an unisex Eau-de-Cologne iteration of the house of Caron's famous masculine scent Pour Un Homme (For a Man). As if to make the genealogical link explicit, it takes as a name the tag line that used to be inscribed on the labels of the bottles of Pour Un Homme (see the 1934 advertisement below).

Pour Un Homme is reputed for its characteristic aromatic freshness combining with a delicate sustained sweetness. It is a scent that manages to balance out these two facets without one overshadowing the other. Thanks to the subtle dosage of vanilla and amber, the lavender in Pour Un Homme seems to have been hand-picked as is from a dry windy hill as a representative of the sweetest varietal of the flower without ever feeling artful...

Caron-1934-homme-Lavandes.jpg
With Les Plus Belles Lavandes, I had the pleasure of being reminded spontaneously of the sweet richness of the lavender note found in the vintage version of that other historic lavender perfume, Yardley Old English Lavender (1913). I know I was supposed to make a connection with its elder brother, Pour Un Homme (1934), but instead my mind started floating down the years to memories of Yardley Lavender being peddled on the overcrowded shelves of an exotic supermarket in Malaysia next to a luscious green jar of brillantine in the same scent. I desperately wanted to own and use the jar of brillantine especially but could not really see myself using it. The thought of dipping a comb in it and lustring my hair with the thick greasy solution did not make sense even to me and felt overly masculine a gesture. Meanwhile I would come and sniff and stare at the Yardley Lavender almost each time I visited that supermarket with my parents. I think that I was also hypnotized by the old-fashioned labels, wondering how old the scents really were. In this case, this anecdote is not completely gratuitous because Yardley Old English Lavender was created by perfumer Richard Fraysse's own grand-father, Claude Fraysse (there are several members of the family who are perfumers; I think I counted five). I am tempted to detect a loving homage paid to his ancestor.

Les Plus Belles Lavandes is a harmonious subtle sweet and musky lavender perfume never lacking in character thanks to its dirty naturalistic pungent herbaly overtones. A creative touch seems to have been added by Fraysse for a more unisex interpretation of sweetness by pulling it in the direction of sweets, but done very subtly. It has been softened down as well, with an undertone of green angelica.

The eau de cologne starts with a fresh lavender outburst and then becomes more opaque and soft-smelling, more like a soft gourmand oriental even hinting at a subdued, attenuated accord smelling of delicate dragées, sugar-coated almonds that present quite a subtle scent of vanilla and sugar with faint nuances of aniseed, licorice and marzipan.This little confectioner's motif is very understated adding an almost subliminal gourmand touch to the sweet lavenders. To counterbalance this angelic sweetishness, more primitive animalistic notes, amber and dark musk, retain their influence, with nuances of black rubber and pith. There is something reminiscent of Chanel Bois des Iles and Donna Karan Cashmere Mist in the soft, understated peppery vanillic musky and ambery powdery drydown. At times, especially in the dry-down, some of the vanilla peeks through as feeling a bit synthetic and naked on its own when it is not as well-covered by other ingredients, but it is a minor gripe. The longer dry-down has the character of precious powder. It is a delicious lavender cologne with a neutral complex unisex personality.

Perfumer: Richard Fraysse
Notes: Lavender essence, lavender, vanilla, lavender absolute, amber, musk

Gender label: Unisex

Comments

Hello, Love your blog and Caron:)
How's the lasting power of Les Plus Belles?

Hi Nika,

Thank you for you kind words! I'd say that the lasting power of this "cologne" (as indicated on the packaging) is more than of a persistent eau de toilette. It must last at least 5 hours, discreet powdery-aromatic drydown included.

It's a really nice lavender eau.

I forgot to add that the spray bottle is refillable.

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