Dior will Release a New Eau-de-Parfum Twist on Diorissimo (2009) {New Perfume}
One of the big perfume news this fall is that Dior is going to release an Eau-de-Parfum version of the classic Diorissimo created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1956. The composition has experienced the vagaries of existence by undergoing a series of reformulations over the years. As I noted elsewhere, the latest form of Diorissimo Eau de Toilette has become more of a jasmine perfume than the pure lily-of-the-valley scent it used to be. I have to interject that Dior Parfums was very forthcoming about telling the truth about these non-publicized changes when asked about them by TSS last spring. I am glad that I will be able to talk about the past, the present and the future with this new version....
Currently there exists an Eau de Toilette and an Extrait de Parfum versions which are part of the collection Les Parfums de Monsieur Dior (The Perfumes of Mr. Dior.) to refer to the scents that were created which bear Christian Dior's personal touch.
According to the US edition of Vogue, in the September 09 issue, perfumer François Demachy decided to offer a new version and to rework in particular the heart of the fragrance by adding notes of blackcurrant, neroli, Turkish rose and Egyptian jasmine.
If we are to read in between the lines of the brief description given by the nose who characterizes the new EDP as a "more carnal" version of Diorissimo EDT, we will be probably further taken away from the original composition, which is not necessarily completely negative but might provoke some heartaches to devotees of Diorissimo. It might still be an improvement over the current EDT iteration, a staple spring fragrance of many French women, which presents some problems and perhaps this project shows that the issues were recognized by Dior.
In the US, the EDP priced at $72 will be found at Saks.
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Ah! Diorissimo the ultimate "débutante" perfume..., beautiful on a bride too.
I smelled the new edp version (on paper) and I had the impression of a tuberose note in it. The edp is less innocent than the edt. The "airy" feeling is a bit lost, which was probably intentional.
The new freesia version of Forever and Ever (the original was more of a peony thing if i remember well) is very nice too. Not special, but of a way better quality than its previous duty free incarnation.
I like how François Demachy is able to give more richness to Dior compositions. J'adore Absolue is so much better than the very synthetic smelling original.
Posted by: CedriCeCCentriC | September 10, 2009
I'm part-way with you. When I smelled the latest incarnation of Diorissimo EDT, I thought that it was quite different, much more solar and jasminey and -- blasphemy! -- perhaps not for the worse. I, personally, am ready to accept changes in perfumery in the name of creativity. After subsequent tries, I had to somewhat change my mind as I find that the drydown is not qualitative enough. I also -- in a rare move -- regret that the airiness of the original Diorissimo cannot be reproduced by other means as beyond the lily of the valley note, the perfume really projects a unique atmosphere.
But I understand Demachy's choice to break away more radically if it cannot be helped, although one might interpret it also as his appropriation of those perfumes. He loves jasmine, carnal flowers and he is leaving his mark.
Regarding the original J'Adore, I at first was primarily struck by its sense of very French conservative elegance, but I was able afterwards to get from it a delightful woodlands flowers impression that is particularly ethereal in the edt version.
Posted by: Marie-Helene Wagner | September 10, 2009