French producer of natural oil essences and extracts Biolandes have announced that they successfully developed three oak and tree moss extracts which can be used in personal perfumes in compliance with IFRA's 43rd Amendment.
In the world of perfume lovers, the dwindling-away of the material in perfumery, due to allergenic precautionary measures has become a sore point.
Mitsouko by Guerlain had been debased then partially rescued. But other classics of perfumery such as Ma Griffe by Carven, Cabochard by Grès have been disfigured by the treatment and are barely recognizable today...
In general, the restriction on oakmoss poses the problem of re-interpreting the classic genre of the chypre fragrance while causing deep frustration over the slow agony of old masterpieces of perfumery. The news could be a harbinger of interesting propositions to come, while no doubt, new tastes have been developed meanwhile for the neo-chypres. I think that what matters most in the end is creativity.
Mousse de Chêne Absolue/ Oakmoss Absolute "Low Atranol" is said to reproduce the characteristic smoky note of oakmoss with a damp underbrush aspect and a woody/piney facet.
Mousse de Chêne/Oakmoss INCO 20 "Low Atranol" is said to be less smoky than the previous one, more mineral and slightly marine. It is visually clearer and is therefore useful in cosmetics and toiletry applications.
Mousse d'Arbre/Tree Moss INCO 30 "Low Atranol" is said to be very foresty and piney in the top notes then to develop a smoky dried lichen note.
All three extracts conform to the July 2008 IFRA regulation recommending that less than 100 ppm of Atranol and Chloroatranol be found in an oakmoss extract. In 2001, IFRA had already restricted the quantity of DHA to 0,8% in tree moss extracts and to 0,1% in oakmoss.
Source: Biolandes newsletter January 2010, via Perfumer & Flavorist.