Lubin, the revamped French perfume brand hailing from the 18th century, is coming up with four unisex new fragrances called Bluff, Figaro, Itasca, and Inédite. While their previous offerings were references, in name at least, to perfumes from the archives of the house, it seems that this time, the compositions while drawing inspiration from history are presented as novel. Bluff and Itasca are attached to the name "Le Vétiver de Lubin" and Figaro and Inédite to that of "L'Eau Neuve" who transform themselves from fragrance names into collection names while their bottles are re-utilized with a fresh coat of metallic paint...
Bluff is inspired by a historic lineage of frontier tonic drinks which gave us Coca-Cola.
"The composition is inspired from the invigorating remedies supplied to the pioneers in the Wild West during the gold rush. Once developed by emigrant physicians, these tonics were first considered as medicines. They would soon become a part of American culture, and later be transformed into soft drinks for young people."
Top notes: lime, bergamot, nutmeg and cinnamon.
Middle notes: Clary sage, iris and kola nut.
Base notes: Vetiver, cedar, patchouli and sandalwood vanilla.
Itasca is another fragrance inspired by the new world and more particularly by "the forests covering the American landscape once inhabited by the Algonquin tribes and pioneers exploring their depths," around lake Itasca, the source of the great Mississippi river.
Top notes: Neroli, marigold, mandarin, juniper berry and grapefruit.
Middle notes: Clove, tonka bean, clary sage, nutmeg, geranium flower.
Base notes: Itasca red pine (pinus resinosa), Java vetiver and Texan cedar, Partak incense, Ethiopian myrrh, amber and Canadian fir balsam.
Figaro is named after the character in the play of Beaumarchais. "Figaro by Lubin takes liberties with conventions much like the character that inspired it. An extremely original unisex fragrance, its construction is based on the daring opposition of vetiver and fig, which starts out green and ends up with gentle amber and woody base notes."
Top notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, pink peppercorns, marine pine.
Middle notes: Fig and apple, Damson, coriander leaves, clover.
Base notes: Essence of vetiver, styrax, sandalwood, tonka bean .
Inédite is also inspired by a literary fictional character, Aziyadé, the heroin of Pierre Loti. There was also a Parfum d'Empire scent which drew inspiration from the same source, with a perfume explicitly called Aziyadé in 2008.
Inédite is about "Aziyadé, a young Circassian harem girl imprisoned in an oriental palace, embodies the unreachable and sensual beauty of which every man dreams. The word "inédite" means "unpublished" in French, like the story the young author in love with Aziyadé didn't dare tell."
Top notes: Sicilian mandarin, bergamot, pink peppercorns from Mexico.
Middle notes: Russian coriander and cinnamon, Javanese cloves, heliotrope and lilac, nectarine, Damask rose and cabbage rose.
Base notes: Vanilla, iris, patchouli, Kashmir cedar, white musk.
The four fragrances are available in the USA at Aedes.com for $110 for each 2.5 oz eau de toilette. A sampling program can also be purchased.