Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir (2011): Great Ads, Elegant Scent {Fragrance Review}
Bulgari Mon Jasmin Noir (My Black Jasmine) new this spring, is the follow-up perfume creation to Jasmin Noir which was released in 2008 and co-created by noses Sophie Labbé and Carlos Benaïm. The sequel sees Labbé back, collaborating this time with perfumer Olivier Polge.
Sophie Labbé said that she wanted the new creation to convey the sense of “the glow of a diamond in golden caramel” [cf. Qantas Magazine], while the Sephora website in France states in a more diffusive manner that "Mon Jasmin Noir reveals the new facet of a mysterious and imaginary flower unveiling its dazzling charm and the innocence of its sensuality."
The latter assertion anchors the scent in the recognizable abstract-flower tradition of perfumery like the original which was a stylistic licence poétique taken on jasmine, a so-called "white-floral" in perfumery.
To say that a flower smells white is pure psychological association and meaningless otherwise, except for the indoles since night-blooming flowers use their heady scents to attract and are white to be better spotted in that milieu...
The other level of symbolism at play here is reportedly the contrast of black and white. While Jasmin Noir was a fictionalizing of white jasmine into a dark palette of moods and woods, we are told that Mon Jasmin Noir becomes the sign of the triumph of light over (the created) shadows. The newest composition pursues a different line of thought based on the same essential accord making it a true flanker.
Fortunately, I was able to smell the perfume before I read about its purported intents, which simplifies my task. The only parts I would retain from these descriptions is that the creamy aspect is indeed here; the abstraction certainly too. As for "the glow of a diamond in golden caramel", I think that it is an apt description for the 25 ml bottle in the Jewel series, which is absolutely adorable and surprisingly affordable for the sensation of luxury it creates. Opening the box, you can only applaud Bulgari for having managed to recreate so well the sensation of opening a jewelry box and discovering such an eloquent fool's gold in the shape of a worry stone.
Notes are: golden cedrat, pink peppercorn, sparkling and luminous lily of the valley / elegant and beguling Arabian or Sambac jasmine, Angels' Wings jasmine / irresistible and sensual musky nougatine and precious woods.
Mon Jasmin Noir has been touted as a Jasmin Noir for the younger set, hence arguably the inserting of a tantalizing gourmand accord of "musky nougatine" - the latter is brown nougat or mandorlato in Italian or almonds coated in caramelized sugar - but it strikes me also as a more complex and sophisticated composition than Jasmin Noir which tends to come across as a simpler woody musky floral by comparison recalling more straightforwardly the salty buttery woods of Sensuous by Estée Lauder. Mon Jasmin Noir in my opinion is more in tune with the hyper glamorous advert whose face (and body) is actress Kirsten Dunst posing as a mythological goddess next to a statuesque, regal lion. Perfumer Sophie Labbé also said that she had been influenced by her visit to the luxurious exhibition about Bulgari jewelry held in Paris in the winter of 2010, 125 ans de magnificence italienne.
The Eau de Parfum opens on elegant fruity and floral notes in which the accents of Sambac jasmine with its nuances of orange and muguet are quite perceptible. The other jasmine is jasminum nitidum or angelwing jasmine. There are green nuances of grass blades -- one of the ideas for the scent was to capture the scent of jasmine throughout the day: green in the morning, warm at noon and sensual at night.
One recognizes the woods of the original in the background with more insistence on a creamy facet of sandalwood which meshes well with the idea of the milky nuances of the almonds found in the nougatine accord. The composition is warmed up by synthetic ambergris. Dusty cedar wood brings a foresty, lumberjack note with a hint of green.
The scent comes a bit short on the lastingness factor.
Initially I was quite struck by the resemblance of Mon Jasmin Noir with fragrances such as Réminiscence Jammin', Cartier Déclaration, Cacharel Eden, which all feature a creamy cardamom accord. Smelling them side by side makes you realize they are distinct but nevertheless the fundamental idea of Mon Jasmin Noir seems to have been to introduce a white-creamy green and fresh cardamome twist on the original. Doing this comparative test also allows you to see that the fragrance offers more qualitative materials regarding the floral notes of jasmine. Thinking further I think of Kenzo Jungle L'Eléphant and Coty Exclamation! with their rosy and creamy cardamom notes.
When I deal with fragrances that do not aim to be wildly original but just wish to bring a certain aura to a person, I am tempted to do the Mirror Test, which is to see how I think this perfume brings out certain nuances out of me (and that out of any woman incidentally), exactly as when you put makeup on, or clothes.
Mon Jasmin Noir turns out to be an effective option for bringing out the sensual and mysterious sides of your persona. Like the right shade of eye shadow, it suddenly discreetly creates more withheld mysteries. It is therefore to me essentially a mood fragrance, a fashion accessory you can play with to decorate your body (in an anthropological sense.)
The oriental facet of Mon Jasmin Noir guarantees a little bit of intrigue while its fresh and airy facets make it an easy perfume to wear.
If you can toy with color and textures in front of your vanity, I don't see why scent couldn't officially be thrown into the arsenal consciously used by the coquette.
Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:
Nina Ricci L'Air (2011): Subtle Body - Corps Subtil
Hermès Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011): Two Manners of Jean-Claude Ellena Fuse in Vegetal Fireworks
Parfums de Nicolaï Kiss Me Tender (2010): Complex Heliotrope Soliflore
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