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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Susan G. Komen Promise Me Formula to be Retired, but not the Fragrance - Update {Fragrance News}

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After relaying the news from Daily Financial that Promise Me by the Susan G. Komen Foundation was bound to be retired due to and hazardous-ingredients issue, we received a response from the foundation, with more information to deny the discontinuation and express their point of view.

Their official position seems to be that while Susan G. Komen's scientists have tested and found nothing endangering with the levels at which the incriminated ingredients are used - there are actually 6 of them detailed after the jump - the foundation want to show that they set the bar high and will therefore change the formulation of the fragrance. But the perfume in its current form will not be retired meanwhile as it reportedy meets FDA guidelines....

The chronology of the events is that last summer, concerns were raised over 4 ingredients to start with. Their scientific and health teams reviewed the ingredients "and it was determined that they were not linked to breast cancer risk in humans, although studies continue." Susan G. Komen then went to TPR Holdings who make their fragrance and the manufacturer agreed to reformulate the perfume.

When I asked what the four ingredients were, Leslie Aun explained that,

 "The ingredients questioned early this summer are:

·         Benzyl salicylate and coumarin are both found in deodorants and antiperspirants; research to date does not show a link from those products to breast cancer;

·         Buteylphenyl Methylpropional – studies have shown that at very high doses this agent may mimic estrogen and increase proliferation of breast cancer cells.  FDA studies do not link this agent to cancer at the levels in the perfume; and

·         Benzophenone-3  - This is an ingredient in sunscreen which some studies link to cell mutation; again, at the levels in the perfume, this is not considered a risk for breast cancer."

In late September, 2 further ingredients came under scrutiny, Toluene and Galaxolide. The foundation recognizes the fact that there is Galaxolide, but Toluene is apparently a figment of the imagination of the activists who attacked the perfume.

"TPR Holdings and their manufacturer they have assured Komen that there is NO trace of toluene even in the smallest amounts in the fragrance.  Galaxolide is found in the fragrance at such a small amount (billionth) that it is perceived to be negligible and is well within the guidelines of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) guidelines."

So the reason why the current perfume can be sold is that it is officially okay to do so, although everybody implicitly recognizes that the standards of safety could be heightened. I pointed out that especially given the context of the rising development of green, all-natural and organic perfumes at an industrial scale, an institution like the Foundation could perhaps be seen to be missing an opportunity to assert strong ethical values.

In conclusion, Leslie Aun said that a recall of the product was not warranted because,

"The last batch of the perfume was manufactured in May of this year; we expect manufacturing and sale of the reformulated product to begin in early 2012.  Given our assurances from four independent reviews of the fragrance, we have not asked the manufacturer to recall or remove unsold products."

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Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

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DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

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