Fashion designer Tom Ford will launch a flanker to Black Orchid (2006) called Velvet Orchid, from fall 2014 in the UK and US markets. The creative process was admittedly particularly demanding this time as no fewer than five persons officially put their heads together to create the new jus, including the label founder...
Tom Ford is known for his keen aesthetic sense, hands-on approach, and on more than one occasion, strong ideas about fragrance-making. One element he knows how to impart to a perfume if need be is personality. So it came as of a bit of an unexpected twist to learn that the designer worked with four perfumers to conceive Velvet Orchid.
The four noses who co-sign the fragrance are Yann Vasnier, Calice Becker, Shyamala Maisondieu and Antoine Maisondieu, all from fragrance company Givaudan.
Ford's demands were reportedly very specific and hence, you can guess, required fine-tuning. Special circumstances are said to have been attached to the development process of a flanker perfume meant to be an echo of the original while evoking something new and unique.
"Velvet Orchid retains Black Orchid's instantly recognizable elements: a fresh, lush petal facet; animalic notes and skin-lacquering warmth, and re-imagines these elements into a fragrance with a uniquely compelling nature."
The eau de parfum opens on top notes of Italian bergamot and Mandarin Orpur™. There is a special sensation relying on the impact of a Succan absolute which is described as an ultra-purified rum extract which lends a sophisticated and weird sensation evoking a caramelized, lacquered sugar cane note. The head ingredients also include a luminous honey note which offers texture and dimension that meshes with the fragrance's soft and creamy vanilla background: "Wild and warm, the honey and vanilla together suggest the carnal presence of skin-on-skin."
The composition of the fragrance reveals itself to be particularly rich and intricate while also making use of Scent Trek technology. The heart is said to be filled with "corporeal floral notes." It comprises a Velvet Orchid accord based on jasmine absolute, rose oil from Turkey, and "the lush, Cattleva Leopoldii orchid Scent Trek™—a fuchsia orchid from the forests of coastal Southern Brazil"— it all intertwines with Tom Ford's signature Black Orchid accord. Further, Orange blossom and rose absolute from Morocco "lend tender substance and body" to the floral heart which is dusted by the salt of heliotropin enhancing by contrast "the nearly edible, savory nectar." Other floral notes which are featured are Magnolia, jonquil and hyacinth all creating an effect of "ultra-feminine floralcy."
The base of the composition is said to be intensely rich and warm. Wizened Peru balsam adds its rich dark note. Labdanum, sandalwood and myrrh resinoid Orpur™ make the perfume feel round, as "the elegant grandeur of a textured, raw suede accord infused with Comoro Island vanilla binds Velvet Orchid to the skin."