bob on
Gai Mattiolo That's Amore Tropical Paradise Tahitian Vanilla & Tahitian Water (2010) {New Perfumes}
: wow, look at that, I'm already drooling, great color, looks superb. how ...
karin on
Parfums de Nicolaï or 3 News for this Spring 2010: l'Eau MiXte, Un Soir en Sicile, New Boutique - Update
: Would love to read an announcement that PdN has updated their website. ...
Trometter on
Are You in the Mood for Oud Aromania? {Trend Alert} + Oud Timeline {Sniffing Suggestions}
: You own a very interesting blog covering lots of topics I am ...
Lucy on
The Popularity of Clover Aroma and L.T. Piver Trèfle Incarnat in Literature and Perfume since the 19th Century - Part 1 {Scented Thoughts (on St Patrick's Day)}
: Wonderful post! I wish there were more clover scents available at this ...
Ruth Ann on
Le De by Givenchy (1957-2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}
: I too was so excited that Le De was again available! But, ...
mario on
Like This, Tilda Swinton by Etat Libre d'Orange (2010): Aphrodisiac Pumpkin {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}
: Thank you for an excellent back ground on this fragrance.
Lucy on
The Pure White Trend in Fragrances: A Return to Fundamentals {Trend Alert}
: Yes, I agree this is a trend, and I am very much ...
sylvia r. on
Yves Rocher Rose Ispahan {Perfume Review In A Nutshell} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 10}
: Desperate for Rose Ispahan - got it as part of a mini-set. ...
Mitsouko on
EOS for Him & Her (2009): Beer-Based Carbon-Neutral Fragrance Smells of the Future {New Perfumes} {Fragrance News}
: Oh, brilliant! I can't wait to smell like waste and rancid beer! ...
Mitsouko on
In Canada, Perfume Intolerance Mounts in Public Spaces, Honolulu Agrees and The Stinky Bus Trope in Pop Culture {The 5th Sense in the News}
: If there is one thing that I find more obnoxious than stench ...
Linda on
The Quest for The Civet Oil {Ask Marie-Helene & the Readers}
: I forgot to put the anti-spam number in my post so here ...
Linda on
The Quest for The Civet Oil {Ask Marie-Helene & the Readers}
: I too have been searching for the Civet Oil I bought in ...
Theresa on
Kim Kardashian Perfume (2010) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}
: I smelled the fragrance in Sephora's and I was quite shocked how ...
Manhattan on
Beyonce Heat (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
: Just purchased this Fragrance today in Manhattan, and I have to say ...
ruby on
Dior Escale à Portofino (2008) {Perfume Review}
: I have brought a bottle for my birthday last year and I ...
Comments
In most cases, the formula belongs to the fragrance creator/supplier and NOT to the brands. Companies like Givaudan, Firmenich, IFF among others have in general the formulas (when an inhouse perfumer was not available for the brand). In general the formula was not revealed to the brand and it's the same case today, though in some cases (LVMH) some parts of the formula are revealed. But that's an exception. Not all houses in the past had their own perfumer and so had control on formulas.
For the case of Piguet: the fragrances were produced by Roure, the formulas belonged to Roure and then Givaudan. That's why the reformulation of Fracas, Bandit, Baghari was made by Givaudan perfumer's and not someone else:))
Posted by: Octavian | September 1, 2007
I see. This is an interesting distinction. It seems to me however a bit surprising to think that a brand would have absolutely no say or control whatsoever over a perfume formulation being resold or redone since it represents their image. But, strange things do happen in the world of perfumery as Guy Robert pointed out in his talk:)))
Posted by: Marie-Helene | September 1, 2007
The terms of the contract are allways very clear, that's sure! In theory you can redo any perfume but you cannot use (or say) the name! It's a brand / "trademark" issue.
Sometimes the name/story/brand ar as important as the fragrance. It's all the magic around. It's sad but people today would buy "Chypre by Coty" not especially because of the fragrance. I have tones of old formulas, but they are useless from a commercial point of view.
Of course, brands have some control: You decide a formula, I will supply you exclusively. But the formula is mine.
Though, in a big company, not all perfumers have access to all formulas. That's what makes the difference!
In exchange, in every big company there is a fragrance library with thousands of formulas (unused by a client). When a brief (and not a big one!!!) comes, someone will take a fragrance, maybe some small modifications will be done and that's all. If you are a small brand (so, little sales expected) it's quite rare that a "big" perfumer will work for you from scratch.
It's a fact that marketers will never tell to the public; their magic creation is just one picked from a shelf by an experienced evaluator. :))
So many new launches.... so short time, so many "coincidences"...it's allways a question about beeing practical. :)))
A lost brief (in a competition) will go there and will find maybe a new client. :)
Posted by: Octavian | September 1, 2007
Thank you for the clarification. This all sounds so....bureaucratic rather than creative:)
Posted by: Marie-Helene | September 1, 2007