Monthly Archives from March 2006

January 2008 Archive

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January 18, 2008

Isabel Derroisné Rose Divine (2006): A Gourmand Rose Au Naturel {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 3}

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Rose Divine was launched by Isabel Derroisné in the summer of 2006. Its perfumer is Céline Ellena, the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena. She is known for fragrances created under the label of The Different Company, a niche perfume house where she succeeded her father after he was recruited to be the in-house perfumer of Hermès. She has already proposed Sel de Vétiver, Jasmin de Nuit, and a trio of scents inspired by gardens. Rose Divine represents thus an incursion outside of her familial territory and an opportunity for her to work on a perfume that will reach a different public, a slightly more commercial one. Being herself from the Grasse region, she would have been familiarized from an early age with the scent of the Rosa Centifolia whose absolute is used in this perfume in generous proportions, 1 %.

Rose Divine will have to dispute the honor with Thierry Mugler Rose Angel of being considered the first gourmand rose perfume ever created as Pierre Aulas, the olfactive artistic of Thierry Mugler, claims that Rose Angel, composed by Olivier Cresp, is the first gourmand rose scent ever to have seen the light of day. Both creations came out in 2006. Interestingly, each of these scents illustrate a similar category with one of the two roses used in perfumery, Rosa Centifolia for Rose Divine and Bulgarian rose for Rose Angel.....

Continue reading "Isabel Derroisné Rose Divine (2006): A Gourmand Rose Au Naturel {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 3}" »

January 19, 2008

Pacifica Persian Rose Candle {Home Fragrance Review} Scented Quote of the Day, from Saadi...{Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 4}

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Pacifica started their business in 1995 as a candle-making company and later branched out into beauty care. Their scented body butters are very good as we have had already the opportunity to point out, both from the vantage points of texture and perfume. Some for the latter part, are better than others. We discovered them through their creams, tried their soaps and eaux de toilette too, and lastly sniffed their candles. The scented candles, did not beckon us immediately as they seemed to be on the strong side and to lack some subtlety, at least when not burning. Nevertheless, we decided to try Persian Rose, which offers a rather enthralling true dewy fruity rose scent as captured in the cold soy wax.....

Continue reading "Pacifica Persian Rose Candle {Home Fragrance Review} Scented Quote of the Day, from Saadi...{Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 4}" »

Thierry Mugler AngelMEN Pure Coffee (2008) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Thierry Mugler will release a limited edition of AngelMEN sub-titled Pure Coffee in mid-April of 2008. The original AngelMEN or A* Men was introduced in 1996 followed by B* Men in 2004.

This new version takes as a point of departure a coffee note that was already present in A*Men, but which thanks to "new CO2 technology allowed the company to extract a natural note directly from Columbian coffee beans,".....

Continue reading "Thierry Mugler AngelMEN Pure Coffee (2008) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

January 20, 2008

Harney & Sons Valentine's Blend: Chocolate Tea With Rosebuds {Gourmet Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 5}

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For Valentine's Day, Harney & Sons have prepared a special blend of chocolate-scented tea mixed with rose petals called the Valentine's Blend. The ox-blood red of the tin packaging is appealing with little cherubs and a red heart decorating the paper label to commemorate the day of love, friendship, and affection....

Continue reading "Harney & Sons Valentine's Blend: Chocolate Tea With Rosebuds {Gourmet Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 5}" »

January 21, 2008

Guerlain Eau de Shalimar (2008) {New Fragrance}

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In keeping with the theme of a fragrant fountain in the garden of Shalimar as embodied by one of the most immediately recognizable perfume flacons in the world, Guerlain will release a new lightened version of Shalimar called Eau de Shalimar this spring from April 1st, 2008. (The flacon is in fact inspired by Indian art and is a stylized bowl of fruits but it has always evoked more a fountain to us). It follows in the footsteps of two lighter formulations of Shalimar called Shalimar Light (Eau Légère Parfumée), which were issued in 2003 and 2004.......


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Swiss Army Victorinox Moutain Water + A Secret Scent (2008) {New Fragrances}

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Swiss Army, who have already launched three perfumes in the USA, South America, and the Middle East -- Swiss Army (1996), Altitude (2001), Swiss Army For Her (2002) (dates courtesy of Fragrances of the World 2008 by Michael Edwards) -- will introduce Mountain Water in February of 2008 and an as-of-yet undisclosed, secret fragrance in October of 2008.....


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A Tangent on Daniel Craig, Skarb, & Jewish Escapees in Forests {Scented Image}

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Last time when we reviewed Skarb by Humiecki & Graef, we had decided to use, as illustration, a picture of Daniel Craig crying for photographer Sam Taylor-Wood, from her opus entitled Men Crying. With his physical appearance that can pass as Russian, it felt like a doubly pertinent illustration for the post about that perfume that is supposed to evoke how Slavic men cry (and which might have been partly influenced by the concept behind Taylor-Wood's artistic and psychological study.).....

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Aroma M Geisha Nobara-Cha (1997): A Spicy, Contemplative Rose {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 6}

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Aroma M is a small New York-based perfume house which was founded in 1995 by two artists, Maria McElroy and husband and partner Shinya Yokota. The aesthetics of the house reflect their common love of the Orient and the visual arts. Their mission as they declare it themselves is to "interpret and update the Geisha sensibility and the subtleties of Japanese incense for contemporary fragrance connoisseurs."  After Japan they announce that Turkey and the Ottoman period will be their next creative influences.

Amongst Aroma M's characterizing features is a great attention to the outer shell of the perfume, especially as it pertains to the all-important ritual and art of gift-giving in Japanese culture. Refined Yuzen papers and Shibori textiles, vintage ones, are used to accompany and intensify the pleasure of perfume-wearing seen as an aesthetic gesture demanding a visual preparation and heightened sense of anticipation.....

Continue reading "Aroma M Geisha Nobara-Cha (1997): A Spicy, Contemplative Rose {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 6}" »

January 22, 2008

Thierry Mugler Scatter Stars Across Blogalaxy + The Island Of Dr. Muglerstein {Fragrance News}

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Thierry Mugler Parfums have a history of original marketing approach based on a solid belief in outreach going miles deeper than the easy smile flashed at their clientele during the time of a mere transaction or two. They have developed since 1992 clubs of Angel aficionados that regroup loyalists of the perfume, offering them seminars, previews, etc. The very year of the perfume launch, they decided to go on an Angel's Tour across France to boost a perfume that was slow to be adopted by perfumeries.

Now they are going a step further and realizing the importance of the 2.0 web, or at least betting on it, they are organizing a network of bloggers who can join a universe called Blogalaxy......

Continue reading "Thierry Mugler Scatter Stars Across Blogalaxy + The Island Of Dr. Muglerstein {Fragrance News}" »

L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses (1993): An Earthy Masculine Rose {Perfume Review} {Men's Cologne} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 7}

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Voleur de Roses (lit. Rose Thief or "Stolen Rose" per L'Artisan's translation) was created by perfumer Michel Almairac in 1993 for L'Artisan Parfumeur. In the recently published 22 parfumeurs en création by Clara Molloy, the book opens on his interview, one of the most interesting, humane ones in it, and the one leaving one of the more lasting impressions despite the fact that you read it before all the others, as they are organized alphabetically. What makes him stand apart from the rest of the perfumers is that he reveals somewhat of an unexpected rebel's personality, not easily satisfied with his corporate lot. He acknowledges the fact that he stands firmly on the side of the raw materials themselves rather than the concepts presiding over them. This position is commonly seen to be that of the Grassois school of perfumery, which is perhaps usually less publicly articulate about its preferences than the more intellectualist one working with ideas or stories as points of departure. Hence, a sense of difference that is more marked in the current media context. Last but not least, he is the only one who confesses publicly and candidly to having been "hurt by a perfume", Minotaure by Paloma Picasso, which was not successful commercially, for reasons that are hard to decipher.

His creations are wonderful and we can particularly call attention to Gucci Pour Homme, Burberry London/Classic, Rush, and Saks For Her. He himself says that of his own perfumes two that he can say he "adores" are Burberry London/Classic and Rush. He likes Casmir a lot and he likes Zino by Davidoff.......

Continue reading "L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses (1993): An Earthy Masculine Rose {Perfume Review} {Men's Cologne} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 7}" »

January 23, 2008

2007 Flacons D'Or & Etuis D'Or Awards: Consumers' Choices For Best Perfume Packaging {Fragrance News}

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Amethyst by Lalique won the 2007 Etui D'Or

As previously announced, the voting for the Flacons D'or awards started taking place anew last fall in its seventh edition (after a year of interruption). This consumer award was created in 2000 by Hugues Charuit, President of the Grand Prix International du Flacon de Parfum (GPIFP). This year for the first time, outer packagings were also submitted to the evaluations of consumers for the awarding of the Etuis D'Or. The vote intervened on a pre-selected pool of perfume candidates. 30 000 people participated and the results are now in for the gold, silver, and crystal "medals" in the women, men, and children categories,

Flacons

Flacons d'Or

Femme/Women
L de Lolita Lempicka

Homme/Men
Azzaro Now d'Azzaro

Enfant/Children
Kaloo Liliblue de Kaloo Parfums......

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L by Lolita Lempicka won the 2007 Flacon D'or - It was created by the Agence Sylvie de France

Continue reading "2007 Flacons D'Or & Etuis D'Or Awards: Consumers' Choices For Best Perfume Packaging {Fragrance News}" »

L'Oréal To Buy Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, Boucheron & More {Fragrance News}

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WWD reports that L'Oréal is interested in acquiring exclusive world-wide and long-term licenses for several prestigious luxury beauty and fragrance brands to complement its portfolio. It is currently in negotiation with PPR, which belongs to the Pinault family. Included in the $2. 26 billion deal are Yves Saint Laurent Beauté Holding including Roger et Gallet, Boucheron, Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta, and Ermenegildo Zegna.

Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007): A Girly Party Rose {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 8}

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Emporio Armani Diamonds is yet another example of one of the most popular feminine perfume note accords that were last year: the rose-amber-patchouli accord. You might have come across it in the major launches of Dior Midnight Poison, Gucci by Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent Elle, which capitalized on it. Of the scents found in the series alluded to above, Diamonds is the least sophisticated one as it aims a younger age group or at least, seems to. It is a rose perfume updated to meet contemporary mainstream taste; it took a detour to the candy factory and was made to adhere to a pink-coded girlish ethos despite the fact that the juice is colored white. If you smell it, you will see that in fact it is a pink juice. One can read in the copy from Sephora,

This surprising and decadent fragrance is based on the traditional symbol of femininity, the rose, but is twisted with luscious, edible notes to create a truly desirable combination.

We will not linger here on the celebrity context for the scent. You can find more details about Beyoncé Knowles fronting the ad campaign in our previous post......

Continue reading "Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007): A Girly Party Rose {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 8}" »

January 24, 2008

Samsung Perfume Cellphones For Women {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Samsung have released two new cellphones, the SGH-L310 and SGH-L320, which are said to have been specially conceived for women and which therefore, include a scent-matching system.

It is often reported that women have a more sensitive sense of smell than men and for some reason this seems to be reflected in the perfume industry practice of hiring mostly women as perfume evaluators. There are traditionally more men perfumers than women though, which seems here to draw a traditional gender barrier in the professional realm. Think about the minority of women chefs that exist as opposed to cooking seen as a feminine specialized activity in the domestic realm......

 

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Perfumes, Cosmetics, & Designs Awards for Best Beauty & Perfume Packaging {Fragrance News}

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The Perfumes, Cosmetics, & Designs Congress, which will become an annual event from now on, have awarded prizes in the beauty and fragrance categories for best packaging. The prizes reward qualities of innovation and what is described as that special relationship that is the "formulation/packaging complementarity". The jury composed of journalists and packaging experts was not able to reach a consensus so mentions were given this year alongside the main prize in each category.

For feminine perfumes, Palazzo by Fendi which reproduced the beautiful classical architecture of the Palazzo Fendi won the award and Elle by Yves Saint Laurent which seemed to mimic the classic structure of a YSL tuxedo and also looked like an angular YSL lipstick tube won a mention.....

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January 2008 Archive

Page 4 of 6  •  1 2 3 4 5 6

Latest Comments

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