The Buzz

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Helena Rubinstein Wanted

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

Natori by Josie Natori

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 3

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter 2

North-American Originals: Perfumers on Fall & Winter

My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


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January 2008 Archive

Page 4 of 8  •  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

January 12, 2008

Whimsical Yet Practical Definitions of "Linear" & "Olfactory Pyramid" {Perfume Words}

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A linear perfume is one that is like a lady dressed in a fur coat wearing nothing underneath who flashes it open revealing everything and strikes the same pose overtime, unafraid to catch cold.

This type of perfume is generally opposed to the kind that offers a pyramidal construction, developing academically in 3 stages........

Continue reading "Whimsical Yet Practical Definitions of "Linear" & "Olfactory Pyramid" {Perfume Words}" »

January 13, 2008

Intimately Beckham Night Men & Intimately Beckham Night Women (2007-2008) {Perfume Reviews & Musings} {Celebrity Fragrances}

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The Beckhams moved to the United States before their new duo of fragrances, Intimately Beckham Night for Men and Intimately Beckham Night Women will cross the Atlantic. The perfumes were launched in September of 2007 in Asia and Europe and will be rolled out to the US market in 2008. Another "signature fragrance" by Victoria Beckham is said to be planned for the fall of 2008.

Since 2005 and the success of Instinct, the Beckham franchise has developed to include both the day-time and night-time versions of the couple's perfumes meant to embody their marital bliss and sexy image. The Intimately Beckham Night duo is the sexiest to date. The men's version was created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Bethouart of Firmenich, the women's by Andrea Lugo of Takasago........

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Continue reading "Intimately Beckham Night Men & Intimately Beckham Night Women (2007-2008) {Perfume Reviews & Musings} {Celebrity Fragrances}" »

January 14, 2008

Serge Lutens Five O' Clock Au Gingembre (2008) {New Fragrance}

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Serge Lutens will release a new perfume in March of 2008 called Five O' Clock Au Gingembre (Five O'Clock, With Ginger). It is said to be a study on the sensation of preciousness, conjuring up the vision of a black Rolls Royce slowly driving in a wintry landscape. The jus is described as a smoky and lightly peppery composition with notes of candied ginger, patchouli, bergamote, honey, pepper, and dark cocoa.

A 50 ml flacon of Eau de Parfum will retail for 73 €.

(via Duftarchiv.de and Basenotes

Interview with Francis Kurkdjian in Libération {Fragrant Reading}

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There is an interesting interview with Francis Kurkdjian in Libération today. Some of the highlights or news we learn are that he has the ambition of creating his own brand in the future, like Karl Lagerfeld or Phillipe Starck.....

Continue reading "Interview with Francis Kurkdjian in Libération {Fragrant Reading}" »

January 15, 2008

Trademark Questions Over The Use Of The Word "Peace" {Fragrance News} Q & A with Laurice Rahme of Bond No.9, Liz Zorn of Liz Zorn Perfumes, & Sarah Horowitz -Thran of Creative Scentualization {Perfume Q & A}

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 The Scent of Peace by Bond no. 9 was released in March of 2006
 

The internet is -- we perhaps tend to forget this in our daily practice of it -- a fascinating, revolutionary medium of communication. It is the most democratic source of unfiltered up-to-the-minute news -- the simple citizen can now access the type of information that was in the past only available to powerful professional or government agencies signed up for example with press wire services such as Reuters or AFP, and then some more -- and at the same time it is an infinitely more reactive one. News but also rumors and gossip can spread like wildfire and nowhere more efficiently than within a community of like-minded people who are passionate about the same thing, in this case perfume.

Online perfume communities were somewhat shaken last week by discussions over the trademark infringement upon a Bond No. 9 perfume called The Scent of Peace, a technical and legal debate a priori that hit on a nerve and was echoed from blogs to forums and back to commentary forms. The issue was, interestingly enough, quickly and mainly framed in terms of social justice as it was felt that a small artisan perfumer, Liz Zorn of Liz Zorn Perfumes based in Ohio, had been unjustly attacked by a bigger company, Bond No. 9 from New York city. The public outcry was also fueled by the symbolic significance accorded the word "peace", which many people felt, ought not be reserved for a private party given its universal connotation.

It might be useful to offer some context. Bond No. 9 had also been singled out last year by members of online perfume communities for having, supposedly, single-handedly deprived many perfume collectors of the possibility of purchasing cheaper perfume decants on eBay than what full bottles cost. We will not go into the questions generated by this type of issue. For some reason, people thought that the decanters' shutdown on eBay was principally due to Bond No. 9 and this probably added to some of the animosity felt towards a company that is perceived as being particularly aggressive and unsympathetic to the "little guy" although unofficially made decants are in fact very expensive. By contrast, Bond No. 9 offer, for themselves, a cheap sample program and even the possibility of purchasing their scents in less pricey bottles and decanted in smaller quantities. This antecedent nevertheless helps to explain why many people were quick to react negatively this time around based on popular perceptions, although Laurice Rahme of Bond No.9, when we asked her about the eBay issue pointed out that they were not the only company involved, which sounds like a reasonable statement.

We decided thus to ask questions directly to three persons who might help shed further light on the issue, namely, Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9, Liz Zorn of Liz Zorn Perfumes, and Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Creative Scentualization. Additionally, we contacted Avon and might get a comment from them and if we do, will update this post. Their common point? They all have a perfume containing the word "peace" in it, at some point in time; Liz Zorn has now decided to give up her "Peace on Earth" title at Bond No. 9 legal team's behest and replace it with "Solstice" but some of her unofficial supporters publicized the event enough that it came to the wider public's attention.

It all started from our standpoint with a post by Liz Zorn who was describing her current predicament as a small artisan being attacked by the aggressive legal team of a bigger company, Bond No. 9, over her use of the word "peace" for one of her fragrances. Since then, she has decided to remove all of her posts, but we have kept one quote that you can read below. Liz Zorn released a holiday fragrance titled "Peace on Earth" at the end of 2007. Bond No. 9 had issued a well-publicized fragrance in 2006 called "The Scent of Peace" which, in an innovative take, was linked to UNICEF and a charity organization called Seeds of Peace. Liz Zorn expressed herself eloquently and concluded by announcing publicly that she had decided to change the name of her perfume in order not to fight over the very word that meant the opposite of that type of action.

She wrote on her blog,

"If it had been something else like the word yellow or flower. I might have considered taking them on. But to go to war over the word “Peace” is to me an abomination. To even think such a thing, is unthinkable. And the bad, karma, Ouch!......gives me the willies." .......

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Peace by Pablo Picasso. The Picasso dove was an inspiration for the design of the bottle of The Scent of Peace by Bond No. 9

Continue reading "Trademark Questions Over The Use Of The Word "Peace" {Fragrance News} Q & A with Laurice Rahme of Bond No.9, Liz Zorn of Liz Zorn Perfumes, & Sarah Horowitz -Thran of Creative Scentualization {Perfume Q & A}" »

January 16, 2008

Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge {Fragrance News} {Notebook: Rose}

 
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Note: The Rose Challenge becomes a permanent feature as the Rose Notebook. 

Dear Readers,

We are announcing a challenge for the next few weeks, the Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge. Until Valentine's Day, we will cover a rose scent or edible or rose-related topic a day. Rose remains the "queen of flowers" and is one of the most popular floral perfume categories that exist. We want to celebrate its beauty and track down its most discussion-worthy incarnations. Hopefully in doing this, we can help you choose the perfect rose to offer as a gift on Valentine's Day or just invite you to dream about the beauty of roses! There will be feminine roses, masculine roses, roses to drink and roses to eat, pourquoi pas?

See you soon,
Marie-Helene 

Roses, Roses, Roses, Roses.... 

Day 1: Comme Des Garçons Red Series: Rose (2001)

Day 2: Penhaligon's Hamman Bouquet (1872)/(2003)

Day 3: Isabel Derroisné Rose Divine (2006).....

Continue reading "Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge {Fragrance News} {Notebook: Rose}" »

Comme Des Garçons Red Series: Rose (2001): A Hyper-Realistic Rose {Perfume Review} - {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 1}

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Rose is part of the Red Series by Comme des Garçons and was composed by perfumers Yann Vasnier and Françoise Caron. For those who are interested in the subtleties of authorship in perfumery, one can read about Françoise Caron declaring in the recently published book comprising 22 perfumers' interviews edited by Clara Molloy, 22 parfumeurs en création, (also available in English) that Yann Vasnier could have created Rose without her and that she just "guaranteed for it", a little bit like it used to be in a Renaissance painter's workshop.

Being part of the Red Series in a creative-to-experimental line like Comme Des Garçons means that, Rose is not just about the scent of a rose but a systematic study on how to translate the red tonalities of a natural aroma so that our olfactory representation of a rose -- that indeed reveals itself to be red -- is different from a pink, yellow, or blue rose (one can dream). In this sense, Rose does not hold any surprise or drama; its name does not disguise any more complex bouquet of sensations. Even more remarkable a trait is that the perfume succeeds in creating the representation of a soliflore that is a literal soliflore, suggesting to the perfume wearer the vision of a unique stem of rose abstractly pinned to the air. If it smells red, it is because the illusion of the rose scent never feels disconnected from the color we naturally associate with it. The rose smells of red thanks to it offering lower tonalities, a certain ripeness, fruitiness, and the right degree of sweetness with an undercurrent of ruby red wine coloring the sensation......

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Continue reading "Comme Des Garçons Red Series: Rose (2001): A Hyper-Realistic Rose {Perfume Review} - {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 1}" »

January 17, 2008

Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007): Divine Vanilla {Perfume Review}

 
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Spiritueuse Double Vanille, a limited edition by Guerlain, is a dark, liquorishe-y vanilla that has been rendered more animalistic thanks to a significant dose of cedar wood. Anyone who has walked on a street in a Northern America city where chips of cedar wood are abundantly used to fertilize the soil of gardens can remember how cedar wood smells after the rain; it smells like the sudden presence of a wild beast who would have escaped from the city zoo and is hiding behind the bushes, except it is just the exacerbated aroma of damp cedar wood.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille thus oscillates between gentle sweetness and a more feral quality, sometimes understated, sometimes more overtly erotic. At this point of the perception, a quote by Jean-Paul Guerlain regarding the properties of vanilla starts making more concrete sense: "If a colour or fragrance were to be associated with each day, like the planets were in ancient times, sandalwood would be the Sun, saffron would be Jupiter, and without doubt vanilla would be Venus." Working with this intuition of a deeper erotic quality ascribed to vanilla -- more commonly seen as a comforting gourmand ingredient -- the perfumer has pushed some notes to the point where they feel leather-like or skin-like, as the woodsy notes of cedar start morphing into nuances of raw leather, sweat and even indoles......

Continue reading "Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007): Divine Vanilla {Perfume Review}" »

Oscar De La Renta Oscar Fresh Vanilla (2008) {New Fragrance}

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Oscar De La Renta, the designer brand owned by Yves Saint Laurent Beauté, will release a new perfume from March 1, 2008 called Oscar Fresh Vanilla. It comes after Oscar Bamboo and Oscar Pink-Lily. "The juice is described as a fusion of bright notes and warm seduction."

Top notes are bergamot and blackcurrant; heart notes are rose, marshmallow, orange blossom; base notes are vanilla, Peru Balsam, and musk. 

(Source: The Moodie Report

 

L'Occitane Feu D'Orange (2008) + French Perfume Contest {New Fragrance}

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L'Occitane is launching a new unisex perfume in February of 2008 called Feu d'Orange (Fire of Oranges) inspired by Sicilian orchards. Notes include Sicilian blood orange, sweet orange, Calabrian tangerine, lemon, vetiver, gaiac, vanilla resin, and incense.

The Eau de Toilette Intense will retail for 39 € and the Soft Skin Oil for 29, 50 €......


Continue reading "L'Occitane Feu D'Orange (2008) + French Perfume Contest {New Fragrance}" »

January 2008 Archive

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