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January 2008 Archive

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January 17, 2008

Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet (1872): The Gentleman With A Rose {Perfume Review} {Historical Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 2}

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Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's is a beautiful intense rose perfume for men, which offers a primitivist charm mainly due to the sheer energy unleashed by the otto of rose used in the scent, while being undeniably elegant at the same time. As the rose blooms and then lightens, freshening with the lavender and some other aromatic herbs, the composition starts feeling like an unusual rose fougère.

The perfume retains a somewhat ancient exotic-in-time cachet; it was, in 1872, the first fragrance created by the founder of Penhaligon's (Est. 1870), William Henry Penhaligon, a barber to the chic London establishment who debuted his career by working in the fashionable Turkish Baths in Jermyn Street after which the scent is named. Another story that circulates is that it was created for or inspired by a Turkish sultan. The scent is said to have been inspired by the characteristic smells of "sweat and sulphur of the Hammam". It remained W.H. Penhaligon's favorite. Hammam Bouquet was more recently re-released in 2003 as the masculine counterpart to a then newly launched feminine perfume, Malabah......

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The Turkish baths on Jermyn Street in St James, 1862,  at the time when W.H. Penhaligon was working there, Illustrated London News.

Continue reading "Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet (1872): The Gentleman With A Rose {Perfume Review} {Historical Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 2}" »

January 18, 2008

Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland (2008): The New Prudish Gay Scent {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

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Etat Libre d'Orange is on the verge of launching its new fragrance, Tom of Finland. WWD reports that the Tom of Finland foundation, which commissioned it, requested that it, "does not disturb the odor of men,".

The perfumer-composer for the fragrance is Antoine Lie and to him it had to smell like "a guy coming out of a shower. He's clean, but not fragranced. And he puts on leather pants.". There is also an outdoorsy aspect to the scent and themes of "metal, leather, sensuality, beauty and radiance" inspired by Tom of Finland's drawings. Perfume wearers will be carded -- that's right -- as a suggestive sketch is part of the outer packaging. You will have to be 21 in the US and 18 elsewhere (how will you be able to buy it over the phone?)

Well, it looks like it will be the first non-liberated Etat Libre d'Orange and will serve to underline all the straight-laced Victorian values surviving from the era of our great-great-let me add one more-great grand-fathers .....

Continue reading "Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland (2008): The New Prudish Gay Scent {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}" »

Versace Pour Homme (2008): A Return To Simplicity {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Versace is going to introduce a new cologne called Versace Pour Homme, inspired by a return to Mediterranean roots and Donatella Versace's father. He loved to wear neroli and the scent features this note. Interestingly, Versace is promoting this time a minimalist approach to perfume composition thinking that too many fragrances in the market are too ornamented and made with too many notes. Versace wanted its scent to smell simple and strong....

Continue reading "Versace Pour Homme (2008): A Return To Simplicity {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

Demeter Be My Valentine, Call Me, Love Me (2008): Say It With Flowers {New Fragrances}

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Demeter have launched three new floral fragrances for this Valentine's Day inspired by the spirit of love and once again by American pop culture. Be My Valentine, Call Me, and Love Me are perfume interpretations of the Necco conversation hearts (In 2008, Necco will be offering love and weather forecasting messages!). The perfumes are in fact all described as "romantic floral bouquets" rather than to-the-letter candied gourmand fragrances.

Be My Valentine is " A unique, sparkling scent with peach skin, strawberry leaf, caramelized sugar and ylang ylang that captures the magic of Valentine’s Day itself in a bottle, all year around."......

Continue reading "Demeter Be My Valentine, Call Me, Love Me (2008): Say It With Flowers {New Fragrances}" »

The Politics of Perfume at Davos & Elsewhere In The World {The 5th Sense in the News}

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World leaders gathering at the World Economic Forum in Davos summit next week will be subjected collectively, whether they like it or not, to the subtle atmospheric pressures of perfumes diffused in rooms to enhance the spirit of the meetings and influence the moods and emotions of delegates. In a possible and hopefully milder redux of the collective craze engendered by the virgins' perfume in the novel and movie Perfume, one might see people bond together once more through the sense of smell. Knowing that perfumer Christopher Laudamiel is behind this operation, reinforces the connection as he is the one who had to think about creating such a perfume for the Thierry Mugler coffret.

There is something in the Zeitgeist as people are becoming more and more interested in applying pre-tested olfactory marketing tools to momentous political events. The Korean presidential campaign last fall was premised upon that concept and a perfume called Great Korea was sprayed in meeting places to garner winning votes; Lee Myung-Bak eventually won. The Catalan Socialist Party also just launched a perfume in January of 2008 called "what does socialism smell like?", a deeply introspective scent, which they recommend using also outside of political meetings, for example " in offices to create a pleasant environment of equality and fairness." The US presidential candidates must be using this guerilla tactic otherwise they would really be behind, but they are not saying anything. In the midst of this efflorescence of political agendas expressed via perfume compositions, the question we asked in our post My National Parfum in the summer of 2006 when it felt like sci-fi still holds: can the intent of a perfume be interpreted in the same manner by everyone involved, across cultures and personal histories if scent is also about associations?.......

Continue reading "The Politics of Perfume at Davos & Elsewhere In The World {The 5th Sense in the News}" »

Isabel Derroisné Rose Divine (2006): A Gourmand Rose Au Naturel {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 3}

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Rose Divine was launched by Isabel Derroisné in the summer of 2006. Its perfumer is Céline Ellena, the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena. She is known for fragrances created under the label of The Different Company, a niche perfume house where she succeeded her father after he was recruited to be the in-house perfumer of Hermès. She has already proposed Sel de Vétiver, Jasmin de Nuit, and a trio of scents inspired by gardens. Rose Divine represents thus an incursion outside of her familial territory and an opportunity for her to work on a perfume that will reach a different public, a slightly more commercial one. Being herself from the Grasse region, she would have been familiarized from an early age with the scent of the Rosa Centifolia whose absolute is used in this perfume in generous proportions, 1 %.

Rose Divine will have to dispute the honor with Thierry Mugler Rose Angel of being considered the first gourmand rose perfume ever created as Pierre Aulas, the olfactive artistic of Thierry Mugler, claims that Rose Angel, composed by Olivier Cresp, is the first gourmand rose scent ever to have seen the light of day. Both creations came out in 2006. Interestingly, each of these scents illustrate a similar category with one of the two roses used in perfumery, Rosa Centifolia for Rose Divine and Bulgarian rose for Rose Angel.....

Continue reading "Isabel Derroisné Rose Divine (2006): A Gourmand Rose Au Naturel {Perfume Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 3}" »

January 19, 2008

Pacifica Persian Rose Candle {Home Fragrance Review} Scented Quote of the Day, from Saadi...{Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 4}

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Pacifica started their business in 1995 as a candle-making company and later branched out into beauty care. Their scented body butters are very good as we have had already the opportunity to point out, both from the vantage points of texture and perfume. Some for the latter part, are better than others. We discovered them through their creams, tried their soaps and eaux de toilette too, and lastly sniffed their candles. The scented candles, did not beckon us immediately as they seemed to be on the strong side and to lack some subtlety, at least when not burning. Nevertheless, we decided to try Persian Rose, which offers a rather enthralling true dewy fruity rose scent as captured in the cold soy wax.....

Continue reading "Pacifica Persian Rose Candle {Home Fragrance Review} Scented Quote of the Day, from Saadi...{Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 4}" »

Thierry Mugler AngelMEN Pure Coffee (2008) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Thierry Mugler will release a limited edition of AngelMEN sub-titled Pure Coffee in mid-April of 2008. The original AngelMEN or A* Men was introduced in 1996 followed by B* Men in 2004.

This new version takes as a point of departure a coffee note that was already present in A*Men, but which thanks to "new CO2 technology allowed the company to extract a natural note directly from Columbian coffee beans,".....

Continue reading "Thierry Mugler AngelMEN Pure Coffee (2008) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

January 20, 2008

Harney & Sons Valentine's Blend: Chocolate Tea With Rosebuds {Gourmet Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 5}

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For Valentine's Day, Harney & Sons have prepared a special blend of chocolate-scented tea mixed with rose petals called the Valentine's Blend. The ox-blood red of the tin packaging is appealing with little cherubs and a red heart decorating the paper label to commemorate the day of love, friendship, and affection....

Continue reading "Harney & Sons Valentine's Blend: Chocolate Tea With Rosebuds {Gourmet Review} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 5}" »

January 21, 2008

Guerlain Eau de Shalimar (2008) {New Fragrance}

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In keeping with the theme of a fragrant fountain in the garden of Shalimar as embodied by one of the most immediately recognizable perfume flacons in the world, Guerlain will release a new lightened version of Shalimar called Eau de Shalimar this spring from April 1st, 2008. (The flacon is in fact inspired by Indian art and is a stylized bowl of fruits but it has always evoked more a fountain to us). It follows in the footsteps of two lighter formulations of Shalimar called Shalimar Light (Eau Légère Parfumée), which were issued in 2003 and 2004.......


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January 2008 Archive

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