The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


January 2008 Archive

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January 1, 2008

Scented Quote of the Day, from Jean-François Blayn:

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Chanel No. 5 by Andy Warhol, 1985 

"La vérité en parfum n’existe pas, sauf à être la passagère coïncidence d’une senteur avec notre âme, ce qui fait bien des vérités pour tout autant d’âmes."

"Truth in perfume does not exist, unless one means by that the transient state of coincidence of a scent with our soul, which means that there are as many truths as there are souls."

Note: quote from Dictionnaire du langage parfumé. Jean-François Blayn is a perfume expert and teaches at ISIPCA.

 

This was written in 1990 when the perfume scene was relatively less uniform and therefore less obviously comparable within itself. The new level of homogeneity today pushes towards an objectification of perfume. The development of an active discourse on perfume that seeks other references than the simplistic sentimental "I" and what it likes and dislikes also contributes to disengaging perfume from mere triumphant and conclusive subjectivity.

 

January 2, 2008

Skarb by Humiecki & Graef (2007): How Men Cry - Part 2 {Perfume Review & Musings}

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This review of Skarb by Humiecki & Graef is continued from Part 1. I would like to pick up where I started last time to describe the scent proper,

"...Skarb is romantic in a forgotten sense; the word "eruptive" chosen by the authors to describe this sensation is completely apt. The perfume opens with a hitherto unknown sense of aggression and dynamism, literally jumps at you like a surge of violent emotions breaking one's sense of tranquility and resounding of a diffuse noise that seems to emanate from a crowd. One is reminded of the tears streaming down on the faces of Czechoslovakian men standing on the streets when the German Nazis invaded Prague in 1938."

The smell-personality of the scent is immediately complex: leathery, fougère/fresh, peppery, a trace of semen-like impression (see Sécrétions Magnifiques), metal, a deepening spicy brew. There is a refined undertone of orris adding a sense of melancholia, tenderness, and femininity to the scent. It smells of, or perhaps abstractly suggests dusty history books whose leather covers would have kept, somehow, the faint traces of men's sweat and layered experiences; the sweat is refined and exquisite. The herbs are almost violent in their expression at times, like the scent and properties of natural plants can be. There is also a more systematic peppery and salty impression which makes one think of pepper gas and tears running down on one's face.

A resinous quality emerges that conjures up a witch's hut in a forest whose door sill is announced by bunches of tied up herbs drying upside-down. The area feels vaguely magic and enchanted but also dangerous. The forest motif here suggests also a place of liminal danger in reference to it having been a locus of traumatic experiences during WWII. It signals hidden executions and refuge places for escapees from concentration camps or Nazi raids (perfumer Christopher Laudamiel worked with historical photographies we are told, but I do not know if this type of reference was included)........

Continue reading "Skarb by Humiecki & Graef (2007): How Men Cry - Part 2 {Perfume Review & Musings}" »

9 Montale Fragrances in 2007 {New Perfumes}

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Here is a latter day announcement about 9 Montale perfumes that were released in 2007. They are are: Chocolate Greedy, Fruits of the Musk, Musk to Musk, Boisé Vanille, Roses Musk, White Aouds, Aoud Blossom, Aoud Flowers, and Aoud Velvet (cf. list of new releases on the Montale website with descriptions of notes). ......

Continue reading "9 Montale Fragrances in 2007 {New Perfumes}" »

New Horizons for Fragrance Communications {The 5th Sense in the News}

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Technology to communicate scent sensations in public areas and via the internet continues to develop. Spectrum Online whose audience are "Tech Insiders" reports on progresses in the field,

"If you thought the art of communication had reached its zenith in multimedia technology’s ability to grab the attention of our eyes and ears through text, video, and sound, think again. Japan’s NTT Communications Corp., of Tokyo, is busy developing its Kaori Tsushin, or Fragrance Communications, as a way to pull our noses into the equation. The telecom and network services company has come up with an Internet-linked fragrance system that can be used to generate a wide variety of scents on demand with the aim of heightening experiences, influencing moods, and maybe opening wallets. [....]

It all started in a rather unusual way,

The first instance of its use was in December 2004 when the company hooked up an Aromageur—a small sphere-shaped fragrance dispenser for rooms and personal use—to a PC used for telling fortunes at an Internet café. The type of fragrance released would depend on the fortune being delivered."

Read more..... 

Image of an Aromageur from Digital Lifestyles 

Fragrances of the World - Parfums du Monde 2008 by Michael Edwards, Fresh Off The Press {Fragrance News}

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It is that time of the year again. Each year for 24 years, fragrance expert Michael Edwards has been publishing a reference book on new perfume launches that took place the preceding year. It is hard to believe, but the first Fragrances of the World listed only 323 new releases. In 2008, looking back at 2007, the fragrance scene is simply not the same anymore; the new edition sees the addition of 815 perfumes all begotten in one year time and comprises references to over 5,700 perfumes total. The industry "Bible" is now 196 pages thick,

"Available from early January, Fragrances of the World 2008 is the only guide to classify selective, niche, direct retail, 'masstige', mass market, limited edition and seasonal fragrances. It is dedicated to Michael Edwards' close friend and mentor Guy Robert, the master perfumer and 'nose' behind such legendary classics as Hermès Calèche, Madame Rochas and Dioressence.".......

Continue reading "Fragrances of the World - Parfums du Monde 2008 by Michael Edwards, Fresh Off The Press {Fragrance News}" »

January 3, 2008

Ferré Rose Limited Diamond Edition (2008) by Gianfranco Ferré {Fragrance News}

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This is news mainly for perfume bottle and jewelry collectors and lovers who will be hunting for a gift for Valentine's Day. Ferré Rose issued in 2007 will be offered in a Limited Diamond Edition from February 2008 just in time for Valentine's Day. The fruity-floral perfume was created by Alexandra Jouet and Francis Kurkdjian of Takasago and features a note of Japanese gardenia called the "Kuchinashi flower"......

Continue reading "Ferré Rose Limited Diamond Edition (2008) by Gianfranco Ferré {Fragrance News}" »

Anne Hathaway To Be Spokesperson For New Lancôme Fragrance {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}

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Lancôme has announced that young actress Anne Hathaway will join the ranks of Kate Winslet and Clive Owen to represent the brand's image for a new perfume to be launched in September of 2008,

"Anne Hathaway is a radiant young woman who perfectly embodies modern femininity," Lancôme International president Odile Roujol said in making the announcement. "We know she will portray all the passion and excitement of our new fragrance, to be launched throughout the world in September 2008."

Via E! News , Au Féminin

KNO, JDP, & GWW by Uslu Airlines & Bernhard Willhelm: Winter Light Catchers {Beauty Notes}

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Cosmetics brand Uslu Airlines has partnered with creative director Bernhard Willhelm and issued three new nail polishes in subdued metallic colors meant to dress your nails, not just in any season, but in winter.....

Continue reading "KNO, JDP, & GWW by Uslu Airlines & Bernhard Willhelm: Winter Light Catchers {Beauty Notes}" »

Perfume Nuts Might Be More Depressed Than Nutty {The 5th Sense in the News}

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A series of research studies on auto-immune diseases reveal some links existing between perfume addiction, over-application of fumes, and depression,

“Our scientific findings suggest that women who are depressed are also losing their sense of smell, and may overcompensate by using more perfume,” explains researcher Prof. Yehuda Shoenfeld, a member of the Sackler Faculty of Medicine at Tel Aviv University. “We also believe that depression has biological roots and may be an immune system response to certain physiological cues.” [....]......

Continue reading "Perfume Nuts Might Be More Depressed Than Nutty {The 5th Sense in the News}" »

Smelling Like Mr & Mrs Right on Valentine's Day? {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

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What will be doing on Valentine's Day 2008? Here's an idea; why not go to the sniff-dating event organized by the Dana Centre at the Science Museum in London, UK?

"We each have smells we find attractive and others we don’t. Is it possible to sniff out your ideal partner? Perfumer and aroma scientist George Dodd will lead you through this sniff-dating event."

When? February 14, 2008, 19:00-21:00 at the Dana Centre. You can book your tickets here.

January 2008 Archive

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