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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Fragrances of the World 2009 Silver Anniversary Edition {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}

Fragrances-World-2009-Book.jpg

Like each year since 1984, author and arguably pillar of the fragrance industry Michael Edwards publishes a new augmented edition of Fragrances of the World, a compendium of the fragrances that are available in the international market in designer but also niche categories (since 1998) while also listing new flankers and limited-editions. Its comprehensive and cumulative character has earned it the nickname of the "Retail Bible" (of the perfume industry).

For the 25th anniversary of Fragrances of the World, Michael Edwards is marking the jubilee with a special edition titled the Silver Anniversary Edition. According to the press release,

"Fragrances of the World 2009 classifies over 6,500 fragrances and adds more than 800 new releases."...

Water-Page-Fragrances-World.jpg

This confirms estimations and observations that the production of perfume is reaching unprecedented levels of expansion in recent years.

The book this time is dedicated to famed artist and perfume-bottle designer Pierre Dinand and features a selection of his drawings and flacons.

"Since 1960, Pierre has created more than 700 perfume bottles. Some of his most famous creations, such as the bottles for Opium, Pleasures and Obsession, are featured in the book, illustrated by his drawings."

Courtesy of Fragrances of the World, we have the following tabulated preliminary analysis, as of the beginning of November 2008, of the 2008 launches,

Launches-2009.jpg
The launches of new fragrances is continuing to follow an upward curve this year as compared to 2007 (last year the guide listed over 5,700 perfumes) and has shot up since 1998. Feminine perfumes are still dominating the market while there is a slight decrease of masculine launches (last year was particularly eventful in this regard).

Niche fragrances are in slight regression quantitatively speaking although arguably, given the margin, it might be just more difficult to track down all of the niche releases, except for the better-known brands. Michael Edwards is also selective in his appraisal of who amongst the niche brands he ought to include in the guide. I think that the rationale is to try to see what is a legitimate effort at the creation of a perfume with some integrity and personality versus a pure copy of an existing fragrance developed by a bigger label with much more enormous means devoted to research. On the other hand, there are such xerox-copy scents within the mainstream design market, but the brands have a standing of their own so they are included. It is not the purpose of the guide to "critique" originality and do qualitative analysis.

Limited-editions and flankers are up. It can both signal success or simply brand-name commitment or a conservative trend.

All these figures are preliminary.

"Copies may be ordered online at http://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com, with a 10% discount applicable for all orders received before 15 December 2008."

Via press release

Comments

Why would anyone want something like this in hard copy? I would subscribe if there was an online version.

Your blog is very much good. I am very much impressed by your blog content

CONGRATULATIONS FOR YOUR
VERY INTERESTING WEBSITE.
COULD WE LINK OUR SITE TO
YOURS
www.pierre-dinand.com

Pierre

Yes, of course, no problem :)

And thank you for your kind words,

Marie-Helene

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